Lai Po Heen at Mandarin Oriental Welcomes Chef Thomas Fong from Doha
April 24th, 2024
No Longer in Operation.
Culinary worlds collide at Daikanyama, where a menu that’s likely never been seen at any other Japanese restaurant on earth will be launched next week. Inspired by the soul food served at Simply Mel’s, Daikanyama’s maverick team has latched the inimitable nuances of Malaccan Portuguese cuisine onto favorites of the Japanese cookbook, creating a new canon of boldly original oddities. Thanks to Daikanyama’s Shahril for this preview.
Looks like regular agedashi tofu, but slice open the golden cube and a center of cincaluk spills out. What might otherwise taste pleasant but predictable mutates into a firestorm of fermented flavors that pack a pinkish punch by no means shrimp-sized.
No culture clash: Daikanyama strives for balance, so even though the salted kurau fish pickle remains pugnaciously savory in this rice-paper harumaki roll, it’s harmoniously tempered by a creamy potato salad, oba leaves and carrots.
Chicken pongteh hand rolls, with a little sambal, making use of Simply Mel’s own pongteh recipe. Talk about a vote of endorsement: Simply Mel’s exacting chef Melba Nunis herself has sampled these creations at Daikanyama and enjoyed them.
Ginger-garnished Devil’s Curry chicken, yakitori-style, spicy enough to make tongues tingle, with a sweet-sour edge that’ll encourage taste buds to tango.
The final member of the fab five that’ll be served on this three-month experimental menu starting July 1: Braised sehbak chicken, aromatic with star anise and cinnamon, wrapped in tofu skin and lettuce with chili and soba sauces.
Can’t wait till next week? There’s no reason not to head to Daikanyama even now, since there’s a current Hawaiian-honed promotion through this Sunday
We’re a long way from Honolulu, but the invigorating crunch of these cucumber wraps, stuffed with salmon, onions and togarashi spices, makes us feel like heading to the beach for a luau and munching on these for snacks.
Maguro Poke, a reinterpretation of the classic tuna tartar. In its gastronomic globetrotting, Daikanyama has previously also tackled everything from Hong Kong fusion (teriyaki lo mai kai and century egg chawanmushi) to Indian (soft-shell-crab briyani temaki), Thai (tom yam wraps) & Mexican (salmon tataki quesadillas) and more.
“Wafu Loco Moco,” comfort cuisine that’d be universally beloved, a crisp rice cake crowned with Daikanyama’s house-made hamburger patty and a sunny-side-up.
Not all spam is undesirable, not when it’s chicken luncheon meat bundled in a roll with mango, cucumber and kampyo.
Battered prawns and asparagus, for dipping into tangy pineapple mayo. Addictive.
Two more for the road: Believe it or not, Daikanyama manages to maintain a full a la carte menu besides its seasonal selections, complete with crowd-pleasing choices like seared salmon with truffle oil (RM34 before taxes).
Sake Bomb Maki: Salmon, soft-shell crab and avocado (RM30).
Cielo Dolci’s now-renowned gelato is also available here, in the Daikanyama-suitable flavors of wasabi, green tea and black sesame, drizzled with both caramel and shoyu.
Fun beers and fearlessly concocted cocktails complement Daikanyama’s fare very nicely.
Daikanyama,
42, Changkat Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur.
Open daily starting 5:30pm