Review: WIP on the Park
April 28th, 2025
European cooking is boiling over in Bangsar this month; for this entry, we reveal the first public peek into Portofino, a new Italian outlet that has spun off from the Porto Romano family.
Porto Romano casts a wide net across the Mediterranean for its menu, but Portofino sticks to the Italian classics; expect the likes of freshly made pappardelle with tangy-salty duck ragout (RM36+).
Portofino is blessed with a very good service team, but in terms of its food, some of the dishes might lack the nuances of truly terrific Italian cooking; the potato gnocchi with gorgonzola sauce & beef bacon (RM36++) errs on the side of uber-creaminess, making it too cloying after several bites. It’s (rather one-dimensionally) tasty in flavour, but it evokes more guilt than pleasure.
Risotto with sweet curry spices, prawns, apple slices & parmesan (RM36++), also heavy-handed with the cream. Best shared.
Count us in; Portofino’s features a kahlua kick (RM19++).
Decent wine list at Portofino; house pourings start at RM19.90+ by the glass & RM90+ by the bottle.
Portofino Italian Restaurant
1 Persiaran Ara Kiri, Lucky Garden, Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 03 2094 8490
Open daily, lunch through late.