Review: WIP on the Park
April 28th, 2025
Bali’s best-loved pork ribs have burst into KL this week, brought into Sri Hartamas by a family of Malaysian F&B entrepreneurs who’ve won the endorsement of the Indonesian owners of Naughty Nuri’s original warung.
Naughty Nuri’s in Bali calls itself ‘a funky street-side food haven’ with ‘wicked ribs’ & ‘brutal martinis’ – this breezily casual Hartamas spin-off, where patrons are welcomed with the service team’s cries of ‘oink, oink,’ could earn that exact description.
Let’s start with what’s most important: The signature char-grilled ribs work hard to live up to the legend of Ubud – marvellously tender (use your fingers to peel the flesh effortlessly off the bone), coated in a flavoursome, sticky-savoury-sweet BBQ sauce & coupled with a spicy chilli dressing. At RM39 for a slab that two or three customers can share, Naughty Nuri’s ribs – formulated with the Bali recipe – will be a smash hit. Only 100-plus slabs are currently available everyday, so head here early.
We’re also fans of Naughty Nuri’s Makassar-inspired pork rib soup, with the caveman-chunky, succulent meat seared & stewed with Balinese spices, soaked with garlic toast that ultimately becomes softly infused with the broth’s comfort-food flavours, reminiscent of Chinese home-style peanut soup. RM21.80.
The soft-launch selection is a work in progress – ‘babi guling’ should be available within two weeks – but even now, there’s no shortage of pork; Naughty Nuri’s salads are not spared from the hog, served with roast pork belly, crispy pork skin croutons, brie, tomatoes, hard-boiled egg & pork-flavoured apple vinaigrette. RM24.80.
Indonesian-style nasi goreng with sliced pork (RM18) – fried noodles are also available.
Spam fries with chilli mayo (RM18); other current offerings here include fried chicken wings tossed in whisky sauce (RM19.90) & sausage platters (RM35). Newsflash: No ‘bebek goreng’ will be served at Naughty Nuri’s KL.
Naughty Nuri’s notorious ‘shake, shake, shake’ martinis – Bourdain-approved in Bali – served with a song & dance.
Attractions include the ‘Senget’ Martini (RM35; gin, vodka, dry vermouth), Ginger Jams Martini (RM28; with lemongrass essence) & Bunga Kantan Lychee Mojito (RM26), though the ultimate highlight might be a RM150 Caviartini with sturgeon roe.
Naughty Nuri’s
2, Jalan 20/70A, Desa Sri Hartamas, Kuala Lumpur
Daily, 5pm-1am. No reservations accepted for groups of fewer than 8 customers.