Review: Torii at Taman Tun Dr Ismail

KL’s most buzz-worthy new Japanese restaurant so far this year has surfaced at Taman Tun, destined to become an after-work favourite for crowds seeking above-average fare served by a team that could scarcely be friendlier or more efficient.

Culinary Craftsmen

Start getting acquainted here with the inventiveness of a kitchen crew helmed by Chef Nizam, who spent more than a decade polishing his trade at Ozeki Tokyo. For Torii, these culinary craftsmen have hatched a steamed duck egg custard crowned with foie gras, shrimp and salmon roe, making for a memorable chawanmushi (RM15 before taxes).

Shrimp tempura topped with sea urchin and plum sea salt (RM28), with the uni adding a creamy-sweet brininess that makes this recipe deliciously distinctive.

Torii’s triumphant triumvirate: Temptingly warm, achingly luscious layers of unagi, omelette and foie gras (RM28). As good as Japanese dim sum might get.

Skewered Specialties

Speaking of threes, there are trio of reasons for Torii’s name: the first two refer to the word’s literal meaning (it’s a Japanese gate) and as an abbreviation for yakitori; Torii excels in a sweeping selection of grilled skewered specialities, ranging from chicken liver coated with BBQ sauce and sansho pepper (RM5) …

.. to try-this-now garlic cloves irresistibly wrapped in crispy-fatty chicken skin with sea salt (RM5).

Wagyu sirloin (RM16), packed with commandingly savoury juiciness, alongside ox tongue with black pepper (RM15).

Beef tripe with tangy-thick salsa (RM6).

King crab leg (RM28); Torii will steadily roll out recipes on its no-pork menu. Amid these uncertain times, there are still some guarantees: Expect to hear more about Torii as folks flock here in the months ahead.

Even the complimentary edamame here deserves a shout-out, served warm and fresh with a salty crunch.

Sweets

Torii has teamed up with Forty Licks Ice Cream to create exclusive flavours here, including a dark chocolate sorbet (RM10) that’s terrifically textured and tantalisingly tasty.

Beverages

Let’s finish on what might be the best note for some customers: The third explanation for Torii’s name is a nod to Japanese whisky icon Shinjiro Torii. This place is fanatical about its whisky.