Review: Muugu Garden Bistro, Off Bukit Bintang

The hidden bungalow restaurant of Muugu opened this month near Bukit Bintang, promising crowd-pleasing classics in a spacious sanctuary of calm amid the clamour of the city.

If the leafy venue feels strangely familiar, that’s because this was ‘Max At iHaus’ less than five years ago; now, it’s run by two Singaporeans and their Malaysian partner, expertly backed by a kitchen crew and service team that comprise polished professionals in their respective fields. It’s a friendly place where guests will feel welcome and put at ease.

Whet your appetite

Many thanks to Leonard at Muugu for hosting this meal, which kicked off with warm olive rolls, fresh, fluffy and flavoursome, fabulous for whetting the appetite.

Muugu specialises in seafood and steaks; these pan-seared scallops crowned with quail eggs and partnered with sweet corn cream & beetroot mousse (RM23) might deservedly prove a favourite for customers.

Mussels, succulent in a savoury, heart-warming white wine broth. At RM19, it illustrates how prices here are pretty fair for Western fare in such a nice venue in downtown KL. Plus, parking’s complimentary.

Battered button and oyster mushrooms (RM12), very juicy, served with Muugu’s house-made chilli sauce, a richly smooth, pleasantly sweet concoction that’s a tasty change from mass-produced sauces.

Moving on to mains

Interesting items include the pesto risotto, fragrantly herbal, topped with a fleshy slab of snapper (RM27).

Capellini aglio olio, gratifyingly garlicky (RM17). Carbonara, bolognese, alfredo and amatriciana are all available too.

Chicken roulade stuffed with ricotta cheese and spinach (RM23), accompanied by lovely mashed potatoes that steal the show.

Aussie air-flown tenderloin (RM55 for 8oz), cooked on a volcanic stone grill.

Tender, meaty beef, well-prepared and well-partnered with luscious ratatouille and creamy black pepper & red wine sauces.

Try the truffle-scented fries too (RM8), also addictive, cut from russet potatoes.

Desserts

Desserts here are reassuring rather than surprising: Again, everything’s capably executed, from the irresistible melt-in-the-mouth tiramisu (RM12) …

… to the chilled pick-me-up of this strawberry granita (RM9) …

… to the chocolate lava cake that’s creamy but not cloying (RM12). Throughout Muugu’s opening month, head here and say “Muugu is sweet!” to receive a free aperitif and dessert.

Beverages

House-pouring wine clocks in at RM15 per glass. Would be better chilled though.

Ask Ed at Muugu to whip up an ice-cold cocktail (the Metropolitan Martini is worthwhile at RM18) or lattes that come at comfortingly warm temperatures instead of scalding.