Lai Po Heen at Mandarin Oriental Welcomes Chef Thomas Fong from Doha
April 24th, 2024
Olé! For fans of Spanish fare in KL, it’s time to check out or return to Nexo, which is blazing in a bold new direction this year, with a kitchen led by terrific young chef Isaac Goh, whose talent, skill & eagerness to hone his craft make him a man to watch.
Recent changes in the setting have made Nexo more comfortable, both inside – where a matador & charging bull loom large over sofas – & at the breezy alfresco area outside. Nexo still serves numerous tapas, mostly costing between RM15 & RM25, but its true highlights now are its Iberico pork dishes, made from the meat of Spanish acorn-eating Iberian black pigs. For this Chinese New Year season, you can even order a one-of-a-kind Iberico pork yee sang (RM48++ for regular, RM88++ for large).
Nexo’s Iberico selection is impressive – everything from Iberico cold cuts to tapas of Iberico jowl & Iberico sliders to paella with Iberico loin & pesto pasta with pan-seared Iberico, mostly ranging in cost from RM30 to RM80. Isaac wisely recommends the Iberico belly, very meaty, offering a blissfully tender chew & beautifully pure flavour, served with pickled onions; it’s a testament to Nexo’s respect for its produce & understanding of how to satisfy the palate by nailing a recipe’s taste & textures.
With meat this marvellous, the trick might be pursuing the perfect way to prepare it to let its flavours shine. Nexo does that, with its elegantly sparing use of marination & seasoning, steering clear of heavy-handed sauces. Grab an Iberico spare rib with your fingers & sink your teeth into it, biting through the savoury caramelised exterior & relishing the juiciness of its flesh.
Local pork proves it’s no slouch though; we love Nexo’s whole suckling pig – with its gloriously crisp skin & luscious flesh, coupled with a flavour that’s simultaneously rich & clean, this is as fantastic as it gets. It’s a splurge at RM300++ & must be ordered two days in advance, but if you love suckling pig, it’s a should-try; sufficient for four patrons to share for a main course.
Slow-roasted suckling lamb leg, also a victory, with a delicate, distinctive sweetness, more nuanced than intense, lovely in its smooth, white leanness, kept simple with a mint yoghurt dip. Requires a one-day advance order; a RM210 portion feeds two.
And whether you want wine or whisky to complement your food, you’ll find it (Spanish reds & whites start at RM22 per glass; single-malts at RM24). Many thanks to Serena, Reuben & the rest of Nexo’s team for hosting an exceptionally enjoyable meal.
Nexo Spanish Restaurant
G-13, Ground Floor, Nexus, Bangsar South, Jalan Kerinchi
Daily, noon through late.
Tel: 03-2242-2226
Find: Contact details and map for Nexo Spanish Restaurant
See Also: 14 Places For Pork Ribs In KL and Selangor