Review: Ministry of Crab

You may have heard the buzz about the renowned Ministry of Crab recently opening a new outlet in Tuah 1895 in Kuala Lumpur, just outside of LaLaport near Bukit Bintang. It says a lot about the evolution of the dining scene in the Malaysian capital in recent years that we are now able to attract chefs and brands from near and far. This is just the latest arrival, and for crab lovers, it’s sure to be a welcome new addition to the F&B landscape in KL. But first, a bit of background…

Dharshan Munidasa is one of Sri Lanka’s most renowned chef-restaurateurs and the mastermind behind some of the country’s finest restaurants. Born in Japan and educated in the USA, he incorporated several Sri Lankan ingredients at Nihonbashi, his first restaurant. These ingredients help create many unique dishes based on Japanese culinary traditions. The inception of Ministry of Crab is attributed to an episode of the chef’s television show, ‘Culinary Journeys with Dharshan,’ which featured mud crab. He showcased how it was sourced in Sri Lanka and exported to Singapore to be the essential ingredient in the celebrated Singapore chilli crab dish. After the show was aired, an idea was hatched to open a crab restaurant.

The restaurant’s crabs are sourced from Sri Lanka’s northern coast with sizes ranging from 500 g to 2 kg. The crabs, and prawns served in the restaurant are all caught in the sea, or mangroves, and are not farmed. Those who catch the seafood are dependent upon the vagaries of the weather and sometimes certain sizes of crustaceans are not available, and even once in Malaysia, the restaurant sometimes sells out of a particular size. A display above the restaurant’s open-fronted kitchen alerts diners as to what is in stock and what isn’t and a gong is rung whenever something runs out.

The Chef’s Ministry of Crab is one of just two Sri Lankan restaurants to have ranked on ‘Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants List’ (the other being Nihonbashi). The Ministry of Crab was opened in 2011 as a partnership between the chef and Sri Lankan cricketing legends Mahela Jayawardena and Kumar Sangakkara. The crustacean-themed restaurant has spread its feelers and claws to other parts of Asia with restaurants now in Shanghai, Mumbai, Chengdu, the Maldives, Singapore, and Bangkok, as well as the just-opened branch in Kuala Lumpur. An outlet is soon to open in Melbourne, Australia.

One thing we liked is the brand’s insistence of quality and freshness. In fact, at Ministry of Crab, freshness isn’t just a tagline – it’s the core of the dining experience. The restaurant’s strict “no-freeze” policy ensures that wild-caught Sri Lankan mud crabs are flown in live every two days, and we were told they typically arrive at the KL restaurant within 12 hours of being caught. Once here, these prized crustaceans are housed in a what we were told is sort of a “crab hotel,” where each crab gets its own suite.

This commitment to quality (and of course those speedy flights) unsurprisingly comes at a price. Crabs are never cheap, even when local, but here, the famed crabs are a premium product and are priced accordingly. A 500 g crab starts at RM188, while the ‘Colossal’ 1.2 kg crab goes for RM638. The ultimate indulgence, known as ‘Crabzilla,’ weighs in at 2 kg and costs a cool RM1,188. Much like road tax and engine size, the relationship between crab size and price is not strictly linear – the cost can go up quickly with just a couple of moves up the size scale. Diners can decide what the best balance of budget and crab size is for them.

Helming the kitchen is executive chef Lingesh Dimitrus Joseph, who trained at the original Ministry of Crab in Colombo. His focus is on maintaining the authenticity of the brand’s Japanese-Sri Lankan fusion dishes that have gained global acclaim.

We started with the Crab Liver Paté (RM75), a rich, indulgent and umami-forward spread served with thin squares of melba toast and enhanced (if desired) by kithul treacle syrup. Limited portions of the paté are available daily, as it takes the livers from six crabs to make a single serving. This is a signature dish, and though it may not tickle everyone’s fancy, we liked the concept and the presentation. We also thoroughly enjoyed the delicious Avocado Crab Salad (RM48), with hand-picked sweet crab meat folded with a mild wasabi mayo and loaded into half of a perfectly ripe and creamy avocado.

The Ebi Shioyaki (RM15 per prawn) is another interesting dish, featuring salt-grilled prawns cooked over hardwood charcoal, delivering a perfect balance of smoky char and tender, sweet flesh. For something heartier, the Japanese-style Crab Fried Rice (RM58) is a comforting dish brimming with fresh crab meat. We especially enjoyed this dish, as well.

Seafood lovers shouldn’t miss the Garlic Chilli Prawn (RM98 for 200-250 g with a variety of sizes, much like the crabs), where wild-caught freshwater reservoir prawns are bathed in Italian extra virgin olive oil, garlic, chilli flakes, and Japanese soy sauce. The rich, umami-laden sauce has just the right amount of heat and pairs beautifully with the Kade Bread (RM10), fluffy Sri Lankan street bread perfect for mopping up every last delicious drop – which we did with some enthusiasm. For diners who may not be keen on splurging on a large crab, or perhaps want something that takes notably less effort to eat, the freshwater prawns are a fine choice, and are available with other preparation styles, too.

Of course, this is the Ministry of Crab, so it stands to reason that the star of the show is their signature Black Pepper Dashi Crab (RM368 for a large 900 g crab; RM488 for an ‘XL’ crab between 900 g and 1 kg). Featuring hand-crushed Sri Lankan black peppercorns and a rich pepper-infused stock, this dish allows the natural sweetness of the crab to shine through while delivering an appealing balance of peppery spice. Indeed, the black pepper crab at Ministry of Crab is one of the most celebrated dishes in Sri Lanka’s vibrant culinary scene. Unlike the more common chilli crab, the black pepper crab highlights the bold and aromatic flavours of Sri Lanka’s famed peppercorns. These crabs are wok-tossed with a fiery blend of hand-crushed black pepper, garlic, butter, and a hint of soy sauce, creating a rich and fragrant dish that balances spice heat and savouriness. We detected a smoky spiciness that along with the flavours of the black pepper dashi, worked well with the natural sweetness of the crab flesh.

This signature dish is best enjoyed with your hands, and bibs, disposable gloves, and crab-cracking and meat-picking utensils are all provided. We wouldn’t mind seeing some finger bowls offered for guests to clean up with, but in general, the gloves do a fair job of keeping hands reasonably tidy. Like the prawns, the mud crabs are offered in a number of preparation styles.

To end on a sweet note, the Coconut Crème Brûlée (RM38) puts a tropical twist on the classic French dessert, with coconut cream adding depth and creaminess to the silky custard. We found favour with the subtle notes of coconut present in the custard, and particularly like that the sugar was torched and caramelized at the table, adding not only a bit of drama, but ensuring a crisp, perfect sugar ‘crust’ on the beloved dessert.

On the drinking side of things, as the restaurant has just opened, its beverage list is not quite finalized. When we dined in the restaurant, just a few wines were available but we were assured that a full wine list was being developed and would be in place in a matter of weeks. The restaurant is currently offering two New Zealand Pinot Noirs by the glass and bottle, a Riesling from Alsace (glass/bottle), the impressive Whispering Angel rosé from Provence, and two premium Champagnes.

A chat with the Operations Manager, Frenchman Loic Gilloz, suggests that the forthcoming wine list is in good hands. He rattled off several wine styles that were being contemplated with varieties such as Albariño, Grüner Veltliner, and Gewürztraminer mentioned, and sounding perfect to us as suitable styles to accompany the dishes served at the Ministry of Crab.

Having been alerted to the fact that the wine list was still evolving when we dined, we took along a bottle of Spanish Albariño, and our dining experience was all the better for doing so. This white wine (known in Portugal as Alvarinho), is aromatic and juicy on the palate, Viognier-like wines in Galicia (Spain) and also in neighbouring Portugal. The variety has also found a home in Uruguay, and hopefully the Ministry of Crab will stock wines such South American wines as Bodega Garzón Albariño which are well-priced and brimming with flavour. We loved the aromatic nose with its peachy freshness and lively acidity. There is an Old World subtlety in being flavoursome without being overpowering. Peach and melon came to mind on the palate. For those who enjoy New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, seek out Albariño which will drink very well with the spiciness of the dishes served at the Ministry of Crab.

This is destination dining, and depending on how keen diners are to explore the largest sizes of crabs and prawns, the final bill here can quickly soar. The rather compact restaurant is fairly minimalist in its design, providing a chic yet comfortable ambiance, and three private dining rooms are also available for larger parties. Ministry of Crab is an impressive addition to KL’s dining scene, and reflects the city’s growing appeal to international chefs and dining concepts. And while it’s certainly not appropriate for those with a shellfish allergy, those who love their crabs and prawns will be right in their element at this celebrated ode to Sri Lanka’s famed mud crabs.

Location & Details

Ministry of Crab Kuala Lumpur
GF-03 & M-03M, Tuah 1895,
No. 2 Jalan Hang Tuah
55100 Kuala Lumpur

T: 6017.773 3680
E: [email protected]
W: ministryofcrab.my

Reservations advised