Lai Po Heen at Mandarin Oriental Welcomes Chef Thomas Fong from Doha
April 24th, 2024
Our best bet for Japanese gastronomy at Damansara Jaya’s revamped Atria Shopping Gallery is Manmaru, thanks to the inventive flair & inspiring artistry of Executive Chef Danny Leow, a passionate craftsman who’s sharpened his skills at some of Kuala Lumpur’s most respected Japanese establishments of the past 15 years, including Ozeki Tokyo, Yuzu & Sagano.
Manmaru gives its chef free rein to unleash his imagination through an extensive a la carte menu, omakase sets & frequent specials such as this platter that evokes a kaleidoscopic garden flowing with fresh produce from both underwater & on land. It’s a visual stunner, beautiful enough to exhibit in a food show, but also a pleasure for the palate, with a centrepiece of sea urchin over silken soft fresh ‘yuba’ bean curd sheets, surrounded by eel & octopus tentacles mingling with edible flowers & edamame.
Sashimi is immaculately presented too, with Chef Danny sometimes attempting to surprise customers; the raw seafood often comes in bowls, but on other occasions, it may be spread out on a wooden boat that takes up much of the table length-wise. A serving of seven varieties clocks in at RM210 – fleshy cuts, sumptuous to the bite, with fresh shipments Tuesdays & Fridays.
For a unique treat, we love the Wagyu Roll (RM68), a hefty chunk of sushi rice that’s not only draped with a luscious coat of chilled Wagyu beef on the outside but also stuffed with warmly tender cooked morsels of beef within. A triumph in every way – of taste, texture & even temperature – that warrants hall-of-fame accolades at Manmaru.
One of the aspects we admire about Manmaru’s food is how the dynamics of its recipes are punchy but simultaneously & skilfully nuanced – traits well-represented by this salmon & ikura mille-feuille, made crisp with a boost of sakura ebi (RM45).
With ‘robatayaki’ as part of this restaurant’s full name, it’s worth also sampling the grilled skewers here – a protein-powered ‘moriawase’ selection (RM68) might feature everything from chicken wings, skin & gizzard to salmon, scallops & smoked duck.
Served with a flourish as well: Parchment-baked snapper layered with seaweed, cheese, beef bacon & herbs, fusing elements from the Land of the Rising Sun with border-skipping influences. Takes about 20 minutes to prepare – worth the wait (RM58).
Wrap up with savoury carb comfort: Go luxe with stir-fried udon deliciously laced with a little foie gras & a lot of seafood (RM38) or creamy-crispy seafood croquette (RM22) – or end with basic fried rice, expertly executed. And there’s still more on the menu to try – unagi karaage (RM40), prawn balls with spicy mango puree (RM28) & stingray with Japanese curry (RM32).
The top temptation for dessert is the coconut ice cream (RM18) – compelling in form, this is the Klang Valley’s most ravishing-looking coconut ice cream. It’s a delight, with its delicate flavour bolstered by the topping of delectably chewy dried pumpkin.
Manmaru’s bar is absolutely worth hitting too, with creative contemporary concoctions like the signature Smoked & Plum Galaxy (RM39; combining the fruity powers of plum & peach) & the Hokkaido Spice Bee (RM32; a witty beverage fuelled by honey whiskey). Many thanks to the Manmaru team for being fine hosts for this fab lunch.
Manmaru Robatayaki & Bar
Address: G-26, Atria Shopping Gallery, Damansara Jaya, Petaling Jaya, Selangor
Tel: 03-7733-1038