The Hidden Table: A Remarkable Omakase Journey at AZABU

Well tucked away in a verdant, softly lit indoor vertical garden on Level 5 of Menara Darussalam adjacent to the Grand Hyatt Kuala Lumpur, an exclusive culinary experience unfolds three evenings a week for a brief engagement only under the #DineWithChef promotion that’s being rolled out in conjunction with local Hyatt properties throughout 2025. At this unique AZABU pop-up, sushi, sake, uni, and caviar – yes, all of it – come together in an exceptional omakase tasting experience crafted by none other than Chef Masaki Arakawa. The limited-time private dining venue has been specially curated for this pop-up, and it’s sufficiently hidden to the point that diners must be escorted to the chef’s table from the lobby.

First things first, it’s not an inexpensive meal. But this is a dining journey that’s well worth taking. At RM688 nett, this tasting dinner isn’t your typical sushi night out, not by a long shot. It’s something different and special, it’s outrageously delectable, and it’s genuinely intimate – a word that often gets overused, but here it fits.

Seating at the custom-made chef’s table is exceedingly limited, with just two sessions per evening on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays (6pm and 8pm) and a maximum of only eight diners per session, allowing the chef to fully engage with guests. That alone elevates the experience. Add to that some of the freshest fish and seafood you’re likely to enjoy in the city, exquisitely prepared and thoughtfully explained, with a lovely range of quality sakes chosen to complement the omakase meal, and you’ve got something that’s genuinely memorable.

Chef Masaki’s pedigree is impressive, but it’s his calm confidence, sincere hospitality, and undeniable precision that really seal the deal. After honing his skills in Australia and returning to Japan to master traditional ryotei cuisine, Masaki came to Malaysia, where he helped launch Sushi AZABU – no small feat. His trajectory has been a quick one: head chef in just three years, followed by multiple entrepreneurial culinary ventures, including a halal-friendly ramen concept and more recently, curated pop-ups and private catering events. This wondrous pop-up is a collective testament to what Chef Masaki brings to the table.

At this private dining showcase, he’s in his element, presenting (in a friendly and personable way, which we really enjoyed) a curated procession of 17 small courses that span a spectrum of textures and tastes. The menu may vary depending on ingredient availability, but when we visited, the procession began with a delicately plated dish of Japanese giant squid with tomato fruit – clean, bright, and deceptively simple. (The edible flower that was placed atop the small dish was grown in the vertical garden in which this pop-up is located!)

This opening dish was followed by the arrival of early season bonito sashimi, accompanied by flower wasabi, a combination as fragrant as it was flavourful. From there, the perfectly paced ride continued: chawanmushi served warm and velvety and accentuated liberally with locally sourced Oscietra caviar, and this was followed by a melt-in-your-mouth grilled unagi over eggplant, finished with a silky okra sauce.

Then came a stunningly comprehensive sushi course that was nothing short of extraordinary. Slices of golden eye snapper, tuna akami and toro, striped jack, tiger prawn, and more – each piece carefully shaped with delicately vinegared sushi rice, brushed lightly with soy or a whisper of yuzu, then presented in a well-choreographed rhythm by Chef Masaki himself.

The superb quality of the seafood spoke volumes, and we closed our eyes with each savoured bite – certainly neither a blob of wasabi nor a dish of soy sauce was required. Standouts in the 11-course sushi parade included the bluefin toro, horse mackerel, and the rich, sweet flounder fin muscle – all rather uncommon treats in KL.

A small miso soup with clams and a perfectly portioned matcha cheesecake (masterfully accompanied by fresh whipped cream and palm sugar syrup) brought things to a close. Afterward, we lingered briefly to chat with the chef, take photos, and – for just a few extra moments –  soak up the calming vibe of the darkened-for-evening urban garden setting, with the lights of KLCC Park twinkling just beyond the windows. The AZABU pop-up was unquestionably a uniquely intimate, enjoyable, and engaging dining experience, and it’s one which is highly recommended.

Truly, this is an experience that goes well beyond being just a meal. It’s a gastronomic journey into the essence of Japanese culinary craft, led by a chef who genuinely cares about every detail – from sourcing to slicing to storytelling. It’s something special that’s well worth seeking out.

The AZABU pop-up will run Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays through early June, and while we’re told that it may be extended a bit that time, that’s not guaranteed, so if this concept and superlative culinary experience tempts you, don’t delay in booking your seat!

For additional information or to make reservations, kindly email [email protected] or WhatsApp at +6012.621 9869.