Shunka Japanese Restaurant at Solaris Dutamas

Shunka unfurled this past month in Solaris Dutamas, offering a fresh option for Japanese fare. The name might sound familiar because Shunka operates outlets in Penang, Kedah and Perak; this one marks its first KL branch.

The Shunka chain’s executive chef, Malaysian Elven Tan, spent six years working in Japan; one of his favorites is oden (RM20 before taxes), the classic winter stew of boiled eggs, daikon radish and fishcakes in a light but umami-rich broth. Pure comfort food.

Mentaiko-Topped Salmon

Shunka prides itself on sending its chefs every year to the Land of the Rising Sun to sharpen their skills. The food here, including mentaiko-topped salmon (RM17), is reasonable enough for a restaurant with a mid-range pricing.

Eel Gyoza

Eel is essential in surprising ways on Shunka’s menu: Try the Unagi gyoza (RM16) …

Unagi Sushi Katsu

… or the Unagi sushi katsu, crunchy battered maki with eel, egg and cucumber (RM14).

Pork’s Paramount Too

Shunka serves Kurobuta black pig tonkatsu (RM20), a full 20 percent cheaper than Ichiriki’s at Mid Valley Gardens, but perhaps 20 percent less expertly executed too.

Grilled pork belly (RM6.90). A worthwhile bet; lots of juice, plenty of flavor on this plate.

Alcohol

Hatsukuru Jyumai Ginjyo, 300ml for RM48.

P.S. Sean’s away Nov. 7-17 in a mystery location 8,765 kilometers from KL. Daily blog entries have been scheduled in advance and will be automatically posted, but apologies as comments can only be replied later.