2015 Revisit: Fuzio Italian Restaurant at Berangan, Bukit Bintang: Restaurant Review

This elegant eatery has evolved over the years; it began as Bar Italia in 2009, then became Fuzio in 2012 before sustaining an ownership transition the following year. Fast-forward to 2015, & Fuzio is looking better than ever, with walls lined with locally produced artwork that changes every three months – it’s now a coffee bar by day & a reliable Italian outlet from 5pm onwards.

Antipasti

Fuzio maintains a relatively low profile, but that turns out to be a virtue – if you’re searching for a calm, comfortable destination with satisfactory food & warm service, ideal for an intimate evening with family or friends, Fuzio fits the bill. Commence with the antipasti, a strikingly assembled sharing platter that should hit reassuring notes for fans of Italian fare.

Pretty much as delectable as it looks: Hand-cut raw salmon with sliced mango, seasoned lamb sausages, alongside savoury air-dried beef cecina & succulent smoked duck breast, together with a triumvirate of tomato-based offerings – insalata caprese, eggplant involtini & tomato bruschetta – to round out the rustic repertoire. RM88++.

Rabbit Meat

Fuzio’s selection succeeds in securing our interest throughout. Rabbit meat ranks among the highlights; you’ll find a rabbit pizza (RM40++; recommended, with a crisp, smoky crust complemented by lots of tender, tasty meat & fresh rocket leaves), baked rabbit with sauteed vegetables (RM68++), & pappardelle with rabbit ragu in tomato sauce (RM42++).

Oxtail Spaghetti

The restaurant passes the pasta test too – the oxtail spaghetti (RM38++) proves robust, creamy & hearty enough to evoke bygone meals at Roman trattorias. Wash it down with well-chosen house wine (Italian red starts from RM26++) or Prosecco.

Spring Chicken

Spring chicken receives unexpected treatment, solidly stuffed with porcini risotto. RM72++ for a serving sufficient for two.

Grilled Angus Beef Tenderloin

This one’s a knock-out: Grilled Angus beef tenderloin, one of the most pleasurable steaks we’ve experienced in recent months. Gorgeously juicy, ravishingly flavoursome, well worth ordering for RM78++; served with asparagus & mushrooms al cartoccio.

End with a lovely cheese sampler of gorgonzola, grana padano, scarmoza, taleggio, parmesan crackers & fruits. Desserts include tiramisu & chocolate cake with ice cream, but try the Fuzio Killer, a frozen cocktail of limoncello, triple sec, vodka, rum & mint leaves. Many thanks to Fuzio’s gracious team for hosting us; we lingered for three hours & enjoyed the entire evening.