Graze at Kuala Lumpur Hilton: Restaurant Review

Returning to Graze, Hilton KL’s new substitute for Senses. Earlier entry on Graze: May 7.

Cheese

Mimolette might be currently banned in America because of the mites that help make this French cheese fabulous, but Graze’s customers can savor it here, turned into a beautiful souffle with raisins and pine nuts (RM28++).

Goat’s cheese beignets with sweet millet (RM25++), expertly executed.

A French Classic

Pissaladiere with caramelized onions, olives and anchovies (RM28++), delectably sweet-savory.

Risotto

Risotto with saffron, mascarpone and shaved parmesan (RM33++). We shouldn’t nitpick about a recipe as beloved as Risotto alla Milanese, but a few bites of this do go a long way. Somewhat one-dimensional in both taste and texture.

Pasta

Tortellini of potato and fontina cheese with sauteed escargots and baby spinach (RM33++). Wonderful combination of Italian and French components.

Tarts

Tarts, baked fresh for each meal period and available on a first-come, first-served basis, are the major highlight for dessert. Can’t fault the warm tarte tatin, accompanied by vanilla ice cream (RM18++).

Graze’s signature chocolate tart should also leave some enjoying each forkful in hushed silence.

Complementary Liquor

Complimentary limoncello and grappa, much appreciated.

With only one miss (the risotto, based on personal preference, since others might love it) out of seven otherwise-spectacular dishes, Graze has set the bar high. As far as KL’s hotel restaurants go, Graze is great.