Review: Classic Cantonese, Elevated

Lai Po Heen, a beloved Chinese dining choice located at the Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur, takes classic Cantonese dining to a marvellously refined level, crafting a memorable experience in a beautifully decorated setting inspired by the grand homes of 19th-century Chinese aristocrats. Adorned with imposing chandeliers, white and gold interiors, and intricate hardwood flooring, the restaurant provides an upscale and comfortable environment, enhanced by the sight of chefs preparing their dishes in an open kitchen, which was immediately visible as we entered.

Private and semi-private dining rooms are also available

Lai Po Heen offers a dim sum lunches and à la carte dinners

During a recent dinner, we were delighted with a range of exceptional dishes, starting with the Crispy Fish Skins Coated with Salted Egg Yolk (RM48). A perfect blend of texture and taste, this appetizer delivered the popular, savoury-sweet contrast that’s always been a favourite in this part of the world, but is recently gaining global popularity, too. As it was freshly made and served hot and crispy, this was an outrageously good way to start the meal!

Crispy Fish Skins Coated with Salted Egg Yolk… the perfect appetizer?

Following this, we enjoyed Lai Po Heen’s signature Traditional Roasted Peking Duck (RM240), a wonderfully executed dish that’s prepared tableside with a whole duck (locally sourced, which we like). Featuring crispy skin and tender, flavourful meat wrapped in delicate pancakes, complemented by traditional hoisin sauce and fresh julienned vegetables, our Peking duck was expertly carved, assembled, and presented right by our table. We chose the ginger and spring onion option for our second preparation, and that was delicious, as well. Despite the seemingly lofty price, this dish is actually great value as it will easily feed four to five diners, particularly when complemented by other dishes.

Plentiful pancakes, along with crispy skin and a pair of drumsticks

And speaking of those other dishes, the Fragrant Black Truffle Fried Rice with Scallop and Egg White (RM98) stood out as a fantastic one. As a a sophisticated take on fried rice, the rich, aromatic truffle offset the fresh scallop and bits of light, fluffy egg white very nicely. The result was a deliciously layered profile in well-balanced umami goodness that earned our rave reviews. We’d also recommend the Bean Curd Sheet Stuffed with Vegetables (RM18) or the Stir-Fried Chinese Yam (RM48), prepared with asparagus, butternut fungus, macadamia nuts, and seasonal veggies.

The delectable Black Truffle Fried Rice was a big hit at our table

For dessert, we opted for a simple Chilled Pumpkin Purée with Purple Glutinous Rice and Ice Cream (RM8). Even though this was easily the least expensive entry on Lai Po Heen’s lengthy and comprehensive menu, we felt this was a lovely choice to round off an outstanding meal.

While the wine selection is somewhat limited owing to the nature of the cuisine, it still includes some quality bottles that pair well with the menu’s flavours. We chose a Côtes de Provence Rosé to accompany our meal, though there was a tempting Pinot Noir, as well. For true wine aficionados, it might be worth inquiring if a bottle could be selected from neighbouring Mandarin Grill’s much more extensive wine list. Alternatively, the premium tea offerings at Lai Po Heen are unsurprisingly excellent, providing a delightful range of traditional teas that complement the Cantonese dishes perfectly.

A very popular Rosé, Caves d’Esclans Whispering Angel proved to be a fine choice for our meal

Lai Po Heen’s exceptional cuisine, elegant atmosphere, and attentive service create an outstanding dining experience, whether for a special occasion or just an evening with friends and family. The restaurant’s dedication to preserving Cantonese culinary tradition while introducing refined, five-star touches makes it a destination that deserves its longstanding reputation among Kuala Lumpur’s elite dining spots.