Chef Angie Hiew is back: The pioneering founder of KL’s legendary Spanish restaurants Flamenco & Sentidos Tapas has been on a break for two years, but she returns this month with Bacchus, which specialises in small plates & wine at The Row.

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The selection showcases mainly Spanish & Italian inflections – tapas-style spicy chorizo (RM16), garlic prawns (RM18), beef meatballs (RM16) & potato omelettes (RM15) share the limelight with poached egg cushioned with shaved cheese & pesto (RM12), bruschetta crowned with cream cheese & pear (RM18) & fried calamari (RM18). Pretty much nothing exceeds RM20.

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A smattering of recipes flaunt East Asian leanings – the stand-out is the braised smoked pork belly, with layers of tender, confidently calibrated meat in lightly savoury gravy (RM18). The Oriental roast duck is also enjoyable for sharing & snacking, featuring boneless slices of fowl flesh partnered with a rich, thick plum sauce (RM16).

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Fish dishes span both the raw & the cooked, from salmon sashimi with wasabi mayo (RM18) to slabs of dory with chillies & squid ink aioli (RM14). Creamy, kitchen-made sauces with flavoursome nuances prove to be one of Bacchus’ key strengths.

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Bacchus strives to honour its namesake, the Roman god of the grape harvest, with bottles of Australian Shiraz & Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon that start at RM75-RM80, plus vintages for serious enthusiasts that peak south of RM300. All in all, this is a respectable entry to The Row, accelerating the street’s revival as a reliable destination for wining & dining in the city centre.

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Location & Details

Bacchus Wine Bar

52, The Row, Jalan Doraisamy, Kuala Lumpur.

Tel: 012-330-7712

Mon-Fri, lunch & dinner; Sat, dinner.

Note: Sandwiches & pastas available for lunch, small plates offered for dinner.

Find: View Bacchus’ directory here


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