Review: WIP on the Park

It’s always a real treat to return to WIP on the Park, city centre traffic woes notwithstanding. We sometimes feel a twinge of envy for those who live or work in the KLCC area and can easily visit any number of the excellent restaurants in the area, including this one. Indeed, on our recent visit while contemplating the extensive and well-illustrated dining menu, we ordered a couple of glasses of Kilkenny beer to settle our jangled nerves after negotiating the city’s public transport network to reach WIP. When we arrived at dusk, the outlet was in full swing with a battalion of staff dressed in tropical attire serving tables of eager patrons making the most of the Friday evening and toasting the end of the working week.

Whatever the formula may be for consistently drawing the crowds and keeping them satisfied, the group behind WIP on the Park – which also runs the well-known WIP in Bangsar and the wildly popular SOULed OUT restaurants – has apparently got it all figured out. That’s not to say it’s easy sustaining a successful restaurant venture in a city where eateries come and go with alarming frequency… but seeing as how this group is fast approaching its landmark 30th anniversary later this year, it’s obvious they’re doing well at adapting to a constantly changing F&B landscape.

One thing we at EatDrink consistently champion is sticking to the three basics, and doing them well – food, service, and ambiance. If any restaurant does that, and offers reasonable prices, chances are good they’ll have a leg up on their competition. That’s what we found at WIP on the Park. The ambiance here is always great. The space is open and airy, but still feels cosy. Plenty of greenery and curving lines in the design elements lend an innate sense of natural beauty. This aesthetic is on offer at the Bangsar WIP outlet, too, but here at the Park, it’s somehow levelled up, and the restaurant is just super appealing all around – a welcoming oasis of good times amid the clamour and chaos of KL’s city centre.

GETTING IN TO THE MENU

Our meal began with some bites from their Sharing and Starters menu pages. We thought the Salmon Poke Bowl (RM38) sounded nice and healthy, and though the Borneo Spiced Fried Calamari (RM45) probably didn’t match up to the poke bowl on the ‘healthy’ front, we were frankly curious to see what about fried squid could justify that price point, so we ordered that, too.

Both dishes, different as they were, really impressed with their flavour and presentation. The poke bowl was outstanding, offering plenty of colour and variety, with ingredients such as edamame, mango, avocado, quinoa, crispy fish skin, nori, and of course some lovely fresh salmon. The calamari, while certainly very tasty and accentuated with fried curry leaves and served with a creative green chilli coulis, just didn’t quite live up to its menu price, particularly given the portion size. That’s not to say it wasn’t crispy and delicious; it was. But it seems squid has suddenly become a luxury dish! (We’ve noticed calamari prices on the rise in other restaurants in recent months, too.)

It was a true delight to learn that Chef Sapna Anand is back with the group, too, following a lengthy absence, and her talents (as well as her notable Goa culinary roots) definitely shine in any of the menu’s Indian offerings. A big fan of her Malabar prawn curry recipe – which is not on the menu here but worth keeping in mind if you ever see it – we chose the Kerala Style Fish in Banana Leaf (RM48), a gorgeous piece of mackerel grilled in a banana leaf and then bathed in a spicy Kerala sauce, served with your choice of naan or pulao rice. We opted for the naan and absolutely loved this dish. If your palate isn’t geared towards spicy cuisine, the kitchen can easily dial down the heat for you.

Continuing the seafood theme, we had to try their Honey Miso Cod (RM95), which is served with a good-sized portion of capellini festooned with mushrooms, ikura, pea sprouts, and edible flowers. This was an outstanding dish, beautifully bringing together the contrasting flavours of umami and sweet from the miso and honey, all against the the delicate, tasty background of the fresh cod.

Moving from the sea to the land, we ordered the Grain-Fed Black Angus Tenderloin (RM115), served with mashed potatoes and asparagus. The steak, which is actually a bit short on information on the menu – we asked questions – was nicely grilled and well-presented and we were quite pleased with it overall. It’s a very good dish, but we assume steak is probably not what most diners are coming to WIP to enjoy. A dedicated steakhouse is generally going to be the preferred option, but that said, if you arrive here and suddenly get a craving for a good steak, this one will likely suit you, and what’s more, at a decent price point for such a favourable cut of beef.

For dessert, we chose the Coconut Panna Cotta (RM24) and the Churros (RM28). We thought the panna cotta was light and tasty, but advisable only if you really like coconut, as that flavour dominates the dish. Served with a bit of gula Melaka and some salted caramel, this was a dessert that was easy to enjoy! The churros, on the other hand, were just pure addiction and would appeal to almost anyone! Warm, crispy, and light in texture, the perfectly fried lengths of dough, dusted with icing sugar and served with vanilla and chocolate dipping sauces, were delicious.

LIQUID LIBATIONS

Just like its associated outlets under the group, an important component in the WIP dining experience is beverages, especially alcoholic ones. WIP on the Park in downtown Kuala Lumpur, within a popped Champagne cork of KLCC, offers numerous beverage promotions and happy hour prices.

Cocktails, mocktails, juices, beers, and sodas are available, but it was the wine list to which we turned our attention after our cleansing ales. WIP offers two whites and three reds by the glass and, interestingly, a sweet Moscato, also by the glass, for those seeking a wine to accompany one of the outlet’s tempting desserts.

Cold draught beers hit the spot after a hot Friday afternoon

While the by-the-glass wines on offer are all very drinkable, those who enjoy trying new styles, different regions, and varying price points may not be so excited by the selection. Perhaps diners who order wine by the glass are not that fussed about what is on offer as long as there is a red or a white. However, those who want a white with their seafood starter and a glass of red with their mains may not be so excited with those on offer. One wonders whether the outlet and one of their suppliers could contemplate a wine storage programme such as Coravin or Enomatic dispensers that enable opened wines to retain their freshness with pours that can extend over several weeks.

Perhaps the saving grace for their wines by the glass is the promotion displayed on a tabletop tent card. When we dined, the promotional wines on offer were Frankland Estate (Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon) and Grant Burge 5th Generation (Sauvignon Blanc or Cabernet-Merlot). The two Frankland Estate wines from the southwest of Western Australia were most pleasing.

WIP’s wines offered a nice complement to the cod dish

The wines-by-the-bottle menu is more impressive, with an excellent selection that lists wines by their dominant grape variety. There is a premium wine list that includes the classic Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Riserva 2015 (RM2,300) and Baigorri Rioja B70 2019 (RM740).

On the regular wine linst, grape varieties listed for white wines include Riesling, Torrontés, Vermentino, Albariño, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Grigio, Chenin Blanc, and Chardonnay, while for the reds, varieties include Pinot Noir, Barbera, Corvina, Merlot, Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Malbec, Sangiovese, Tempranillo, Grenache, Nebbiolo, Zinfandel, Nero d’Avola, and Shiraz.

Prices per bottle are reasonable and start from just under RM150 (Sixty Drops Sauvignon Blanc, NZ).

Beautiful rich red wines paired nicely with the tenderloin

Wine vintages are mostly not listed, but the restaurant manager told us that their suppliers have difficulty in guaranteeing specific wines and that vintages could change with each new shipment. Guests who are particular about the year a wine is made would need to ask a server to show them the bottle before it is opened.

The Champagne and sparkling wine selection is also fairly remarkable, as it includes some big hitters like Krug Grand Cuvée (RM1,488) and Dom Perignon (RM1,388) alongside more modest sparklers such as Zonin Prosecco (RM291) and Domaine Chandon (Yarra Valley, Australia, RM369). There is also a Möet & Chandon sparkling rosé (RM588).

Whether capping off a hard day’s work or showing some visiting guests around the city centre, WIP on the Park remains one of the most appealing dining destinations in the area, as long as you’re looking for a vibrant, lively atmosphere. Like its sister SOULed OUT restaurants, WIP is focused on curating a good time for its guests, capably delivering on the trifecta of all good eateries – consistently good food and drinks, friendly and efficient service, and an inviting, enjoyable ambiance. We are already looking forward to our next visit!