Review: WIP on the Park
April 28th, 2025
La Scala has risen from the ashes of il Lido, aiming to become a worthy successor to what was once KL’s best Italian restaurant.
Named after Milan’s famed opera house, La Scala strives to orchestrate the gastronomic equivalent of a stirring symphony …
… conducted by the family of a former Italian ambassador that owns the restaurant, harmoniously combined with the considerable expertise of chef Lucio Russo from Naples & sommelier Sante Losio from Venice.
Russo makes all of La Scala’s pasta fresh daily, so even an amuse bouche of spinach-topped ravioli stuffed with carrots is worth examining & slowly savoring.
Starters reveal a welcome complexity in the kitchen’s recipes; what’s labeled on the menu simply as truffle-roasted Hokkaido bay scallops with quail eggs (RM68++) turns out to feature more than merely that (fans of beetroot & olive oil, rejoice).
Pumpkin soup (RM35++) emerges as creamy & sunny as egg yolk, enhanced with mascarpone cheese, sliced almonds & the surprising fieriness of chilies.
Delicate ‘sedanini’ tube pasta (RM42++), made rich with a ragout of organic veal.
Potato gnocchi with bolognese sauce & cheese (RM44++), filling & fulfilling.
Seafood seeks to steal the spotlight at La Scala: The fruits of the ocean include sea bass fillet (RM68++), pan-fried with nutmeg-tinged spinach, caramelized cherry onions, celeriac sauce & balsamic vinegar …
… seafood casserole with Sicilian couscous (RM72++) …
… & a big slab of cod fish resting on a mound of Italy’s sweet, soft Tropea red onions (RM85++).
Desserts include 72-percent Araguani Valrhona chocolate cake (RM26++) with vanilla ice cream.
La Scala’s menu seems to be a work in progress; expect the full scope of the chef’s capabilities to be unveiled as the weeks proceed.
The restaurant has been gently refurbished in recent months, with more natural sunlight flowing in during daytime & lovely artwork on the walls.
The rooftop terrace bar remains intact, tempting patrons with Bellinis & more.
With so few new Italian restaurants that bear strong ambitions in KL these days, La Scala is certainly a welcome entry; we’ll be back.
La Scala
Jalan Yap Kwan Seng
50450 Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan Kuala Lumpur
Tel: +603 2161 2291
View La Scala’s Directory Page here.