Review: The Kitchen Table Restaurant and Bakery at Damansara Kim, Petaling Jaya

One of 2014’s most heralded openings, The Kitchen Table signals the next step in the evolution of the Klang Valley’s Darwinian F&B scene, spearheaded by two partners who may become poster children for the future of Malaysia’s restaurant entrepreneurs. The Kitchen Table is a reflection of how _ for now _ the trailblazers for Malaysian eateries nearly all left the country for at least a little while, experienced how diverse & dazzling the most beloved restaurants can be, & came back with sparks of inspiration to create a slice of that culinary magic here at home.

The Kitchen Table is a name that’s already synonymous with Marcus & Mei Wan, thanks to home-based supper-club sessions that they’ve hosted this past year. Their full-fledged casual outlet stirred to life this week in a low-key fashion on a peaceful PJ shop-house street that’s set to soon explode with cafes. With Marcus & Mei Wan, their confidence stems from F&B stints in Toronto & the UK respectively.

The Kitchen Table stands out with its clean, bright-white facade & interior, plus its handsome wooden furnishing, simple but strikingly fitting. Mornings are chirpy affairs here; for now, come at 10 a.m. & sweeten the start of your day with fresh cakes & cookies, beamed out by pastry perfectionist Mei Wan & her team of local talents. Marcus, Mei Wan & their affable team are completely hands-on on the front lines of The Kitchen Table, so it’s easy to imagine that some customers here will leave feeling like they’ve made new friends among the proprietors.

Afternoon Tea

Pastries

From fudgy brownies (RM7.50) that live up to their promise of being densely, richly creamy to raspberry-coconut ‘crack slices’ (RM7.50) that pack a zippy-zesty punch, banana to lemon drizzle tin cakes (RM6.50 per slice), these desserts are not only easy to like _ they’re difficult not to love.

Fudgy Brownies and Raspberry & Coconut Crack Slice

Lemon and Banana Drizzle Tin Cake

Carrot & Pineapple Cake

Carrot-pineapple cake (RM12.90). Sunday brunches will also be available soon; queues could form for The Kitchen Table’s buttermilk pancakes with cornflakes, macerated strawberries & gula melaka syrup.

Soft & Chewy Chocolate Chip Cookies

Mei Wan has a reputation for being a cookie monster; it’s no shock her chocolate chip creations, simultaneously soft & chewy, are a treat that any Muppet, blue-furred or not, would want. RM3.90 per piece.

Lunch

At noon, Phillip Phillips & The Lumineers take command of the speakers, curious customers from around this neighbourhood of homes start streaming in & the kitchen kicks into a higher gear, finally serving hot lunches. The Kitchen Table’s recipes straddle the line _ with minimal fuss, no pretensions & a comforting sense of effortlessness _ between rustic & refined.

Pulled pork, carrot & beet slaw, salsa & sourdough

Tender pulled pork with crunchy carrot-beet slaw, salsa & sourdough (RM12.50).

Potato & Leek soup, toasted sourdough

Piping-hot, pleasurably thick potato-leek soup with toasted sourdough. RM9.

Sourdough Loaves

Made with 200-year-old leaven, mother dough that Marcus & Mei Wan inherited from Finnish bakers.

Beverages

Coffee

Coffee (Sumatran Mandheling). The Kitchen Table hasn’t secured its liquor license; corkage is currently RM35 per bottle.

Tea

Pukka organic herbal tea; Marcus recommends ‘Cleanse,’ a combo of nettle, fennel & peppermint.

More elaborate fare focused on domestic produce is offered only for dinner (think red snapper ceviche with calamansi vinaigrette, or slow-cooked pork belly with apple reduction & watercress, or buckwheat fried chicken with thai basil crisps & garlic ponzu). If we can get a table at The Kitchen Table, we’ll be there.

June 5 Update: Here’s our review of The Kitchen Table’s dinner menu this week.

Location and Operating Hours

The Kitchen Table Restaurant & Bakery

23, Jalan SS20/11, Damansara Kim, Petaling Jaya

Open 10am-1030pm (with 530pm-630pm break). Closed on Mondays.

View The Kitchen Table Restaurant & Bakery’s directory page here.

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