Coquo at Solaris Dutamas: Restaurant review

Chef Toni Valero Ruiz and sommelier Gustavo Arriaga are back: The two men who powered the currently-closed Ohla Tapas have resurfaced at Coquo, a notable new restaurant swathed in sleek shadows, with a menu that measures how a perceptive foreign chef can tailor his craft to fit seamlessly into the local milieu while keeping his culinary style and vision comfortably intact.

Coquo signals a fresh turn for Toni in crucial ways – here, he challenges and stretches himself by relying on an impressive diversity of both Malaysian and imported produce, pushing beyond his original Spanish know-how to incorporate contemporary cooking techniques that transcend national borders.

Menu at glance

A glance at the menu illustrates Coquo’s sense of ambition and adventure: Razor clams cooked in brine infused with Pedro Ximenez sherry (RM21) and squid partnered strikingly with a ‘miso sea stone’ toast-like creation, seaweed salad and light okra stock (RM32) can be traced easily to Pulau Ketam.

While meaty Mediterranean anchovies, pickled with parsley oil (RM4 apiece), and plump Hokkaido scallops, cured with calamansi in a twist on ceviche, made textured and tantalising with aromatic coconut air and piquant black olive crumbs (RM9 apiece), emerge from more distant shores.

Oceanic selection

Nearly half of Coquo’s introductory selection speaks of the ocean: Our personal favourite is the tender octopus with boiled potatoes, saffron foam and Pimenton de La Vera smoked paprika (RM41).

Though fans of fish might gravitate toward the 55-degree cod with thin, crisp lotus roots on a creamy cushion of cauliflower, daikon and parsnip risotto with vichyssoise (RM36) and the Japanese tuna tataki with Spanish oloroso sherry infusion, Malaysian pucuk paku fern leaves, caramelised onions and sesame oil (RM37).

Note that Coquo is in a soft-launch stage (with seats by reservation only this week, and full service to commence May 3), so the kitchen may still be fine-tuning some of its recipes; next month onward should be ideal for visiting.

Meaty goodness

Meat here is meant for hot-blooded carnivores – the 68-degree, Josper-oven-cooked suckling pig seeks to provoke primal lust, complemented by an herb reduction, yam puree and garlic mayonnaise (RM39), while the Basque County top-tier cecina proves seductive in its resonant depth of flavour, showered with grated Manchego cheese and extra virgin olive oil (RM22).

Balance your meal with a Catalonian escalivada of grilled vegetables with garlic oil covered in spinach leaves (RM24) and the marinated mixed olives and pickles in bouquet garni herbs-infused olive oil (RM14; this has been a staple for Toni since Ohla’s first week).

Iberico tartare

Saving the best nearly for last: Iberico tartare, the rare recipe that calls for close-to-raw fresh pork, suffused with a sultry smokiness, made to be mixed with a sweet-and-sour yolk and charcoal mayonnaise (RM41). If Coquo requires a signature dish, this could be it, presented with show-stopping panache, robustly nuanced on the palate.

Distinctive desserts

Desserts are distinctive too: Curry leaf ice cream with Szechuan black pepper, strawberries and jasmine green tea gelatin (RM18) is a genre-bending, mind-boggling concoction that we can’t decide whether we like or not. We do love the dark chocolate ice cream though, intensely rich and smooth, with a spicy finish of cili padi, enhanced with mint gelee, green apple compote, oranges and coffee soil (RM17).

And with a sommelier like Gustavo, there are lots of thoughtful wine choices to accompany your meal – by the glass, the repertoire ranges from a Spanish sparkling to a Californian rose, an Argentinean white to Chilean and French reds.