Via Pre at Bukit Damansara: Restaurant review

One of Penang’s top venues for Italian cuisine extends its reach to KL: Via Pre first opened up north in George Town in 2012, run by founders who played key roles in the creation of KL establishments like Bukit Ceylon’s Nerovivo and BSC’s Vineria. This month, it embarks into Bukit Damansara, with Florence-born Chef Luca conveying a taste of la dolce vita in this casual space.

Sausage platter and gnocchi

In George Town, Via Pre is a cavernous restaurant on the coastal road of Weld Quay, its shelves spilling over with Italian hams and cheeses, with a menu of temptations like bucatini with pork cheeks and pizzas with Parma ham and prosciutto. In contrast, this new suburban KL outpost makes a no-pork concession, but the selection remains intriguing. The should-try is the gnocchi, a genuine treat of kitchen-made pumpkin and ricotta dumplings with a natural, delicate lightness, well-matched with smooth, savoury slices of cured beef, steamed zucchini and gorgonzola sauce (RM36).

The pan-fried sausage platter is also enjoyable – a duo of duck and veal sausages, robust in flavour, rustic in texture, complemented by stewed lentils and garlic potatoes (RM56).

Pasta and pizzas

Pastas and pizzas display distinctiveness: Aglio olio is bequeathed with bottarga for a subtle brininess (RM65), while carbonara is studded with cured duck morsels (RM25), both built with whole-wheat spaghetti that’s firm to the bite.

For cheese acolytes, the Quattro Formaggi Pizza forgoes the tired tropes of mozzarella and parmesan for a punchier white combo of taleggio, toma, gorgonzola and goat’s cheese (RM39).

Aperitifs and wines

A solid selection of aperitifs and Italian wines from the north, central and southern regions is available: The most distinctive choices will likely be the Ugo (RM27), combining Prosecco with elderflower liquor, mint and soda, with a classic Sicilian Nero d’Avola wine that’s a plummy pick at RM82 by the carafe.

Meals may finish with the flourish of complimentary limoncello; service is warm and efficient. Via Pre could become a neighbourhood hot spot – on a recent Saturday evening, the place sprang to life shortly after sunset with a birthday party and a nearly full house of other revellers.