Review: WIP on the Park
April 28th, 2025
Cracking open this week, this shining-shimmering cafe’s a splendid sight for sore eyes, a dazzling place that Bangsar’s brunch-hunters can now come to know.
Nutmeg’s something of a family enterprise, comprising two brothers-in-law for its shooting stars; Gordon welcomes customers and watches over the service crew, while William minds the menu and mans the kitchen. There’s more to the team, but these were the two men we met.
Nutmeg’s fare feels touched by homemade, honest virtues, likely since William has spent more time cooking for his family and friends than for restaurants.
The ideal introduction to Nutmeg is its egg-explosive, early-bird selection, offered through the afternoon. Taking us wonder by wonder, we start with this simple but satisfying fried egg, the magic carpet over a mound of sauteed potatoes, salt beef hash and red peppers (RM16+).
Don’t resist the ‘croissant-wich’ (RM26+), spilling over with house-cured salmon and the creamiest scrambled eggs.
Hold your breath, it gets better: Spinach frittata (RM18+) stuffed with sun-dried tomatoes, onions and a stinky-special surprise unmentioned on the menu: blue cheese.
Nutmeg might be a no-pork eatery, leaving its Eggs Benedict (RM26+) bereft of bacon, but instead of banking on typical substitutes, Nutmeg’s kitchen genies conjure thick, tender slices of salt beef, marinated with what might be nutmeg mace (or were we only dreaming?).
Three-egg omelet, tinged over, sideways and under with truffle-scented mushrooms (RM15+).
Baked eggs with tomato compote and brioche (RM18+). With no one to tell us no, this meal might pursue new horizons of cholesterol. We’ll chase our albumin anywhere.
Bagel and Lox (RM21), Nutmeg’s own-baked toasted bread with briny-slick salmon, cream cheese, capers and onions (plus a request of scrambled eggs on the side).
With time to spare, we at last let our desserts-desirous hearts decide: Warm chocolate pudding (RM13+) with hazelnut praline and vanilla ice cream.
Sufficient coffee to send us soaring, tumbling, freewheeling through an endless caffeinated high.
Red-letter moments come courtesy of red wine. The liquor list’s not long here, but that’s OK.
Not exactly a crystal-clear concept, but it’s worth noting that Nutmeg’s constructed to evoke spaces in a home, with its own ‘front porch,’ ‘living room’ and ‘back terrace.’
Let Nutmeg show us a whole new world of local artwork (for sale on the cafe’s walls), currently featuring a fantastic feathered point of view. Strictly for the birds, in a sense.
Oh, this Aladdin’s cave of tasty treasures serves dinner too, from princess-portioned small plates of mussels to main courses of poached salmon, lamb lasagna and spaghetti napolitan.
Nutmeg Cafe,
UGF-28A, Bangsar Village II, Jalan Telawi 1, Bangsar Baru, Kuala Lumpur.
Beside Haagen-Dazs, below Botanical. Generally open during mall hours.
Tel: 03-2201-3663