The Point at Kasah, Bukit Damansara: 2016 menu review

This review is brought to you in part by The Point.

Every visit to The Point is a voyage through a series of surprises, exploring the imaginative prowess of a restaurant that’s been consistently creative since 2014 – we’ve experienced four meals here so far over the past two years, with the latest one proving a successful showcase of the artistry and adroitness of current head chef Kua Jinhao and his team.

Starters

There’s plenty to tackle here, so come in eager to delve into multiple courses: Perk up the palate with the Truffled Angel starter (RM35), which melds delicate, silky textures with punchy flavours, weaving chilled angel hair pasta with the sweet succulence of raw amaebi and the brininess of avruga caviar, balanced by the tang of yuzu sauce and a lemony umami of soy-glazed jelly bits.

Can’t fail with foie: The Point does right by this favourite refreshed with distinctive complements – a buttery brioche, blackberry reduction and pistachio crumbs. A flawlessly pan-seared rendition that dishes out sheer, sumptuously textured pleasure. RM48.

Pastas

Various pastas are available; for creamy comfort, Finding Rosso (RM34) features spaghetti tossed in a sun-dried tomato sauce blended with olive oil and herbs, articulating a crimson reinterpretation of pesto, its dynamics accentuated by fleshy anchovies and crunchy pine nuts.

Fish

We rarely order cod fish these days, since there’s a tired predictability to how it’s prepared at most venues. But again, The Point performs a satisfying job in recasting a classic, putting the unerringly moist, flaky star of Atlantic black cod centre-stage in a swirl of balsamico, mushroom fritters and asparagus, crowned with smoked caviar dressing, wittily named Cod’s Gift (RM65).

Meat

The journey takes a heightened turn with the meat courses: Lamb is a smooth, tender treat, herb-crusted and miso-infused, carried out to a medium-rare voluptuousness to sink your teeth into, a primal indulgence completed with a well-thought-out ensemble of truffled mash, pumpkin tempura, caramelised onions and plum jus. RM68.

We’re saving what could be the best – pork – for last: The Suckling Pleasure is irresistible – suckling pig marinated with white wine, salt and pepper (RM52), cooked sous-vide in an oven for 12 hours, finished in high heat for a few minutes, yielding luscious mouthfuls of crisp skin, melting fat and achingly opulent flesh. Not for the faint-hearted; 25 portions are offered per day.

The one that haunts our dreams is the Reconstructed Bak Kut Teh (RM65), an elaborately playful take on Malaysian Chinese dry-style BKT – slabs of 12-hour-slow-cooked, herb-infused Spanish Iberico pork jowl and Vietnamese pork belly that sent us straight to carnivore heaven, accompanied by mushroom fritters (a substitute for yau char kway), quinoa (to replace rice), bak choy, garlic and a final sweep of a soy glaze tinged with cili padi. A recipe that merits consideration for hall-of-fame status.

Desserts and drinks

Desserts and drinks display deliberate flourishes too: Reinvented sweet staples include Valrhona chocolate ice cream with thick mascarpone cheese, nut biscuits and salted caramel sauce (RM28) and liqueur-loving creme brulee laced with Baileys and kahlua (RM28), while recommended cocktails include the complex, refreshingly nuanced Spice Up (RM35; vodka, lychee liquor, orange juice, mango juice, lime juice, tobasco) and Peace Maker (RM30; vodka, mint leaves, sugar syrup, lime juice, egg white). Many thanks to The Point for having us back here.