Review: WIP on the Park
April 28th, 2025
From Sarawak laksa to Johor laksa to asam laksa, the diversity of Malaysia’s traditional laksa dishes makes for slurp-worthy deliciousness at these modern eateries.
Terengganu-style laksa kuah putih and Penang’s asam laksa are the highlights here – both cost RM6 each, princely portions at relatively pauper-friendly prices for Bangsar, prepared with less salt & oil than the norm, in line with a creed of healthy living at this cyclist-themed café.
Address: Backlane of 90, Jalan Bangsar, 59200 Kuala Lumpur, WP Kuala Lumpur
Read review of Makan at The Basikal
SALTed started out as a stall at Bandar Utama, but in November 2016, it moved into its own full-fledged physical outlet in Mutiara Damansara – the Sarawak laksa is served by a couple from Kuching, boasting firm-to-the-bite, thicker-than-usual rice vermicelli submerged in a savoury broth made with Kuching-produced paste (plus a few extra secret ingredients), blanketed with prawns, cuttlefish, shredded chicken, bean sprouts & omelette strips
Address: 30-1, Jalan PJU 7/16A, Mutiara Damansara, 47810 Petaling Jaya, Selangor
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This friendly, family-run restaurant brings a bit of Johor to KL, relying on recipes that catering veteran Khaty Ahmad inherited from her mother – the star attraction is the Johor Laksa, made with ikan parang (wolf herring) in adherence to authenticity, aromatic with mild spices, creamy with a coconut milk gravy, balanced with shredded cucumbers, sliced onions & bean sprouts. The portion’s small, but the laksa has a nice home-made feel to it.
Address: Unit G-1, 241B, Hyde @Hock Choon, , Lorong Nibong Off Jalan Ampang, 50450 Kuala Lumpur
Read review of Katie’s Stove
Straits Food Company’s fans adore the Malacca-style Nyonya laksa (prepared with a choice of mee hoon or kuey teow), comprising shrimp, fish balls, cockles & more in a light coconut milk gravy, blessedly not too spicy or oily.
Address: 2 Jalan Abdullah, Off Jalan Bangsar,, Bangsar Utama, 59000 Kuala Lumpur, Selangor
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The menu here spotlights flavours from Kelantan state (TOKB stands for Taste Of Kota Bharu, Kelantan’s capital), with northeastern recipes like laksam sourced from a woman who’s cooked for three decades in Kelantan.
Address: Avenue D’ Vogue, No.3A, Jalan 13/2, , Seksyen 13, 46200 Petaling Jaya, Selangor
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Assam laksa tops the list here, hitting the right notes for harmonious proportions of tangy, sweet & savoury nuances. It takes us back to 1999, to the backstreets of Georgetown on a Sunday afternoon.
Address: 33 Jalan 109F, Plaza Danau 2, Taman Danau Desa, Kuala Lumpur
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Tossed takes pride in recipes that its founder’s family has guarded for generations; his mom hails from Johor, so it’s no surprise that the southern state’s staunchly loved version of laksa a should-try here – onion-&-cucumber-garnished spaghetti soaked in slowly-simmered ‘ikan parang’ fish gravy that’s gratifying to the final savoury slurp, served with a potent sambal.
Address: Level 4, Jaya Shopping Centre, Section 14, Petaling Jaya, Selangor
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Many recipes in Antara’s oeuvre reflect a respect for time-honoured local flavours, artfully balancing the generations-old heritage of Malaysian cuisine with modern gastronomy’s ever-expanding palette. Sarawak laksa is crowned with marron for a princely flourish, while retaining the robust dynamics & dimensions of a Kuching-proud rendition, bolstered by belacan brought into KL from Sarawak.
Address: Lot 2, 66-68 Lorong Raja Chulan, 50250 Kuala Lumpur
Read review of Antara Restaurant