Soleil at Section 17, Petaling Jaya: Restaurant Review

Here comes the sun: It’s been a long cold lonely winter for fresh openings in PJ’s Section 17, but with Soleil brightening up this neighborhood beginning this week, the smiles really might return to many faces now.

It seems like years since we’ve tasted the cooking of Evert Onderbeke. Our initial brush with this Belgian-born chef was on High Tide’s first night in October 2000; when that excellent seafood restaurant closed, he stuck around for awhile with its replacement, Cuisine Gourmet by Nathalie, but now he’s seeking success on new terms with Soleil.

Freshly Baked

Starting with Soleil’s own-baked bread rolls, moreish enough to munch ceaselessly.

A Focus on Seafood

Chef Onderbeke’s forte remains the fruits of the ocean; no fewer than six of Soleil’s eight starters are all about seafood. Meat’s not exactly the priority here.

Yellow fin tuna tartar with wasabi mayonnaise and citrus gel (RM36++), a little darling of an appetizer that’s resolutely in the “tastes as terrific as it looks” category.

Marinated crab meat with Momotaro tomatoes and basil sorbet. With even the cheapest choice here costing RM36++, Soleil might not be an outlet for ordinary occasions.

Impeccably pan-fried Hokkaido scallops with gnocchi, asparagus and pesto (RM51++).

Oven-baked North Sea cod with sauteed leeks, mussels and piquillo pepper coulis (RM68++). Delicate textures made memorable with sultry Spanish flavors.

Barramundi crusted with herbs and tempeh, with crab ravioli, Eastern mushrooms and crab jus (RM68++). This dish defines Soleil; call it a modern European restaurant with Asian influences.

Wine

Soleil boasts an unexpectedly well-stocked bar; there’s Billecart Salmon Brut Reserve champagne (RM48++ per glass), as well as numerous wines, cocktails and even sake.