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It’s a hit! Returning to a cheerfully crowded Sitka for its newly launched lunch selection. Introduction to Sitka: April 10.

Sandwiches

Love your liver and start with what’s most scrumptious: one of 2014’s top sandwiches, swollen with crispy chunks of chicken liver, cushioned with coleslaw and orange marmalade. Probably the most satisfaction we can purchase for RM18 at a KL cafe right now.

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Caprese ciabatta with local mozzarella, slow tomatoes & Thai basil (RM24). The bread is out-of-this-world fantastic _ crispy, fresh & fluffy _ though the mozzarella (as well as the ricotta for the couscous salad below) isn’t nearly as tasty as the best ones out there.

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Lobster roll in squid ink bun with cocktail sauce and celery leaves (RM34, Sitka’s priciest order for now).

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Buttermilk-fried Chicken

Also addictive: Half a spring chicken, meatier and more tender than expected, buttermilk-fried, its crunchy skin made enjoyably nectarous with honey and aromatic with thyme. RM23.

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Tacos

Tacos are a treat here: Try the ones teeming with large, luscious panko-fried mushrooms with soy and truffle dressing (RM21) …

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… or those triumphant with tender lamb shoulder (aromatic with spices), crushed peas and mint. RM27.

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More finesse is needed for the beef tacos, featuring gochujang-braised brisket that proved somewhat stringy and overpoweringly salty in parts, partnered with feta & green onions. RM25. All ingredients are sourced locally where possible.

Salads

Sitka’s salads are hearty, complex and nourishing: This plate of aubergines and portobello (fleshy and sweet with miso and honey) mixed with millet provides pure pleasure, reinforced by an add-on 63-degree egg (RM26 in total).

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Say cheese! Tangy mangoes with tomatoes, charred red onions, cilantro, chilli & couscous (RM20), topped with local ricotta (extra RM11) that’s perhaps too stodgy to prove a true textural triumph.

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Let’s finish on very positive notes: There’s still so much that’s admirable about Sitka, so many orders that would make a meal here a success, like this invigoratingly ravishing salad of roasted local beets, orange slices, hummus and chickpeas (RM20) …

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… and a green-thumbs-up pastiche of peas, sugar snaps and long beans with quinoa, herbs and yoghurt dressing (RM18), exactly enough to make us go, “Botanical who?”

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Location and Contact Details

Sitka Restaurant

8-5, Jalan Batai, Damansara Heights, Kuala Lumpur

Mon-Sun 9am-6pm (lunch generally served 11am-5:30pm).

Tel: 03-2011-1117

Find Sitka Restaurant’s directory listing here.