Review: Skillet 2.0

For the better part of the last nine years, Skillet (also known as Skillet @ 163, or Skillet KL) made its home in the comfy confines of Fraser Place, a small hotel property which later rebranded as Cormar Suites. Now, it’s just recently moved to its shiny new location in Menara Hap Seng 3, a short distance away. We paid a visit to check out the new look and were blown away by the degree of ‘level up’ that they embraced along with the move.

The food at Skillet, best categorized as Modern European, has always been superb, so nothing’s really changed there. Still under the auspices of Patron Chef Raymond Tham and Sous Chef Eric Lee, the dishes emerging from Skillet’s open kitchen are as beguiling and delightful as ever, but the ambiance is quite a different take from the restaurant’s old location. While that one was still very nice, there was always a sense that the restaurant and its vision struggled to fit comfortably in the predefined space. They certainly made the most of it, and it worked, but it’s easy to see the difference when you have a more flexible space to work with, as well as an established concept and vision. And that’s just what the new location delivers.

As you walk in on the first floor, there’s a lovely anteroom set up as a cosy lounge for pre-dinner drinks. We were just there for a bit of Skillet’s GastroMonth lunch fare, so we skipped this, but for dinner…? Wouldn’t miss it! An eye-catching dried floral artwork on the corridor’s wall reflects the changing seasons, and in turn, the seasonal nature of Skillet’s set menus.

Skillet’s prominent décor tells a story before you’ve even reached the dining room

The dining room, which has now been well and truly brought up to Michelin Guide standards, has roughly a dozen tables strategically placed around the open kitchen that’s almost set like a stage. In our long experience, the open kitchen concept in restaurants is virtually always a harbinger of a good meal to come: Simply put, if you can see the whole kitchen, chances are, you’re going to enjoy a terrific dining experience.

The service is polished and choreographed, and we’d certainly call it very good by local standards. What we’d love to see, though, is a bit less programming and a bit more personality. The compact dining space means that if you make a small effort, you can hear a server’s presentation at an adjacent table almost as easily as at your own, and we noticed the same phrases and speeches delivered for each dish, each wine… like reciting lines in a play. This rote delivery style of service is fairly common in Malaysian restaurants, so we won’t fault this one for it, but hiring, training, and then empowering servers to actually read their guests and adapt their personal style of engagement accordingly (solemn, friendly, cheeky… it should all be available in the server’s repertoire) would really take service standards in Kuala Lumpur to the next level.

A beloved holdover from the original Skillet – dried longan bread. served fresh and warm

We enjoyed the set GastroMonth menu, comprising a Hokkaido scallop starter, a mains of Tiger prawns and angel hair pasta, and a Strawberry-rhubarb dessert. The dishes were impeccably presented, and the wines (an optional wine pairing is offered), some served with the Coravin preservation system, were also nicely chosen. The regular wine list at Skillet is quite good, though we found the pricing to be rather ambitious, and would prefer to see a few more affordable selections added, as the least-expensive options on the menu were in the mid- to high 200s. We feel that having a few more affordable wines available “gives diners permission” to indulge, and in turn, helps them to have a better dining experience, and even expands their appreciation of good wines. We’re always fans of making wine with dinner more accessible and less intimidating. After all, it’s easier for wine newbies to spring for a RM140 bottle instead of one that’s nearly RM300.

The Coravin wine preservation system used to dispense a 2020 Passobianco from Sicily

Skillet is already Michelin Guide-recognized, and we’d not be surprised to see this restaurant move up in the Michelin standings as its reputation continues to grow. The menu changes seasonally, and there’s always a nice creative flair to the dishes that we find easy to enjoy. The dried longan bread, served warm along with house-made truffle mushroom butter, is a brilliant start to every meal at Skillet. Another fine touch that we liked, and would love to see in other restaurants, is a straightforward per-person charge for premium waters. Skillet pours Purezza premium still and sparkling waters at a flat RM12 per guest on a free-flow basis. We very much appreciated this approach, and commend Skillet for thinking a bit outside the box!

Hokkaido Scallop with Oyster Emulsion and Granita

Tiger Prawns with Ramson and Angel Hair Pasta

The three-course GastroMonth lunch menu (RM128) we were visiting to try is only available through the end of June, and Skillet offers lunch exclusively on Thursdays through Sundays, so there’s just one more week’s worth of this menu (June 27 to 30). However, their regular lunch and dinner set menus are available at any time, and we think Skillet, now in their new location, is well worth checking out. (Note that Skillet’s menus are set/degustation only; there is no broader à la carte menu offered.) They’re likely to be rolling out their new Summer 2024 menu in the next few weeks, so we’ll be eagerly anticipating the latest efforts from the talented culinary team at Skillet!