Kampachi, established in 1974 at the Hotel Equatorial Kuala Lumpur, has been a cornerstone of Japanese dining in Malaysia for a remarkable five decades. Renowned for its authentic cuisine, the restaurant has consistently served high-quality, air-flown sashimi from Tokyo’s famed Tsukiji market, prepared by Ginza-trained master chefs. These days, their menu of course encompasses far more than just fresh sashimi, but adherence to authenticity and superb quality is still key, and nearly all of their menu items are imported from Japan.

Malaysians may currently have a serious love affair going on with all things Japan, but when the original Kampachi opened at the old Equatorial 50 years ago, it wasn’t nearly the sure thing then as it seems to be now. Back then, launching a posh Japanese restaurant in Kuala Lumpur was a riskier proposition than it is today. And yet, it not only succeeded, but has moved from strength to strength since that 1974 opening.

 

Located on the sixth floor at Pavilion KL, Kampachi features dining areas that are contemporary and minimalist

 

Over the years, Kampachi has continued catering to discerning diners seeking genuine Japanese culinary experiences, and has also expanded its presence with standalone outlets in locations such as Pavilion and Plaza33 (and, for a time, at Troika, before relocating to the EQ hotel which was built to replace the demolished Equatorial). We recently visited the Pavilion Kuala Lumpur branch, located on the once-quiet but now absolutely hopping sixth floor, which was teeming with shoppers and visitors in the run-up to the holiday season in December.

The menu at the Pavilion Kampachi outlet is quite extensive. By contrast, the menu at the EQ location is more pared-down, with the emphasis on fine dining and a more curated menu. Fortunately, we were treated to the outstanding service of Ashen, the floor supervisor, whose on-point knowledge and friendly demeanour elevated what was already a terrific meal. The restaurant’s manager, Mira, also came by our table to say hi. We genuinely felt that the service was among the very best we’ve had at any local restaurant in recent memory.

With Ashen’s guidance, we selected a number of items from the à la carte menu, though a number of omakase-style options are also available. We started with the restaurant’s two most popular makimono selections, the Soft Kani Maki (RM90) and the Negitoro Maki (RM110). The former was a delectable deep-fried soft-shell crab roll with fish roe and cucumber. The plus-sized slices were beyond delicious, and we think any visit to Kampachi should feature at least one maki roll. The Negitoro, meanwhile, featured two types of tuna, including a chopped tuna belly topping, along with salmon roe. This one was also absolutely sublime.

 

Soft Kani Maki

 

Negitoro Maki

 

Next up we had to try some of Kampachi’s famed sashimi. Our selection comprised scallop, spot prawn, amberjack, salmon, and tuna sashimi, beautifully served and accentuated with seaweed and sea grapes, which we thought was a very nice touch. Suitable for two to three people, this option is priced at RM380. (If your wallet is particularly deep, unlike ours, you may want to try the prized Otoro fatty tuna sashimi, priced to move at just RM540 for five pieces. The medium-fatty Chutoro, meanwhile, is RM465 for five pieces.)

 

Fresh sashimi selection

 

Moving into the mains from the Yakimono page of the menu, we chose the Gindara Shioyaki (RM99), a beautifully grilled cod fish marinated for over a full day in miso paste. It was a generous portion, and the cod was flaky, tender, and delicately flavoured. This was definitely a winning choice and an easy to recommend selection.

 

Gindara Shioyaki, cod fish marinated in miso paste

 

Curious to sample from their meat selections, we ordered the Beef Sirloin (RM145, 250g). The steak was nicely presented, and accompanied by a marvellous signature Kampachi Truffle Sauce which blends tosa shoyu and mushroom broth with olive oil and black truffle. However, we felt that our particular cut of beef, while certainly respectable, was a bit underwhelming, and likely would have benefitted from some flaked sea salt, along with the truffle sauce. That said, the grilled veggies that were served with the sirloin were fantastic!

 

Beef Sirloin

 

Grilled veggies

 

We also ordered and enjoyed two different chawan mushi selections – one adorned with ikura (salmon roe, RM35) and the other with grilled foie gras (RM58). Both options were excellent, and a plain chawan mushi (RM29) is also available.

 

Foie Gras Chawan Mushi

 

On the beverage side, Kampachi has an inviting list that includes non-alcoholic drinks plus beers, spirits, and some wines. Three beers are available: Kirin and Tiger by the bottle and Suntory Gold on tap. There is a sake highball cocktail and a regulation highball (Japanese whisky, soda, and lemon). Whisky is available by the bottle, and one by the glass and bottle (Nikka from the Barrel). Meanwhile, at RM98,000, the Suntory Hakushu 25-Year-Old Whisky is one for those celebrating. Not surprisingly, sake and shochu are also well represented. In fact, the impressive range of artisanal sakes is made possible by Kampachi’s collaboration with boutique sake breweries.

The wine list, on the other hand, is more limited and interestingly, has as many Champagnes as still wines listed. Those chosen appear to be well-researched for the Japanese dishes offered. Three reds (Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Shiraz) and two whites (Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer) are available, all by the bottle, and the Pinot and Chardonnay by the glass.

White wine was a natural choice for several fish items we selected, and it was the Gewürztraminer that captured our attention. Not a Sauvignon Blanc in sight, and with Chardonnay being the only other white, the selection by the restaurant’s sommelier of Gewürztraminer was a bold one indeed. We have sampled an Elena Walch Gewürztraminer and thought the variety would pair well with seafood.

Kampachi has selected Cantina Tramin Kellerei Selida Gewürztraminer, quite literally the next-door neighbour to Elena Walch Weingut, so we knew it would be good. Both wines are produced in the Alto Adige wine region, located in the mountainous northern part of Italy, bordering Austria. The region’s alternate names, Trentino-South Tyrol, or Südtirol, allude to the region’s complex history.

 

Cantina Tramin Kellerei Selida Gewürztraminer, a fine choice for much of Kampachi’s cuisine

 

From the 9th century until 1801, this region was part of the Holy Roman Empire. It was then controlled by Napoleon before becoming part of the vast Austro-Hungarian Empire until 1919, when it was transferred to Italy in the Treaty of Saint-Germain-en-Laye at the end of World War I. As a result, two-thirds of the people here speak Italian, while the remainder speaks South Tyrolean German.

This region produces some luscious, fruity and fresh white wines and some velvety reds. Gewürztraminer is an aromatic white grape variety that thrives best in cooler climates. In German, gewürz means ‘herb’ or ‘spice,’ but this variety also has a high natural sugar content and a pleasant bouquet of tropical fruits.

The Cantina Tramin wine on offer has a rich, golden colour and a complex bouquet of roses and lychee. At first, we thought we were drinking Chardonnay, but as the wine became a little warmer in the glass, the spicy notes opened up. The wine is elegant with refreshing acidity and was just perfect for the seafood dishes we chose. For the sirloin steak, we switched to the Pinot Noir and were just as impressed with its subtle fruitiness.

We concluded with a simple selection of desserts, including the Abekawa Mochi (RM38), the tender rice cake dusted liberally with crushed mixed nuts, and the daily selection of imported Japanese Seasonal Fruits (price varies), which for us was a lovely presentation of rare light pink Japanese Awakuyi strawberries, truly a coveted delicacy. Both desserts were a perfect way to wrap up an exceptional meal.

 

Abekawa Mochi

 

Japanese Awakuyi strawberries

 

Suffice it to say, we were deeply impressed with the dining experience at Kampachi, which certainly underscores how this restaurant has endured for five decades in the Malaysian capital. The food was outstanding, the service was polished and friendly, and it’s easy to see why the Pavilion outlet does such brisk business – we would advise reservations if you decide to visit!

Bottom line, you can certainly go to Kampachi and spend a near-fortune if you want, but with Bento Box set meals, value-for-money don bowls, and a menu that caters to a wide range of tastes and budgets, you can also savour some of Kampachi’s legendary quality and imported Japanese authenticity for a more wallet-friendly price, as well.

 

Location & Details

Kampachi – Pavilion KL
Level 6, Lot 6.09
Jalan Bukit Bintang
55100 Kuala Lumpur

T: 03.2148 9608
W: kampachi.com.my

Reservations recommended

Additional text by David Bowden

 

Various dining areas at Kampachi Pavilion KL