Review: Elizabeth at Setiawalk Puchong

Decked out with gleaming chandeliers, Elizabeth could be the closest thing to a fine-dining restaurant in Puchong, whipping up European specialities at prices that are blessedly not as punishing as feared.

Strawberries + Oranges Broth

Inventiveness is the kitchen’s watchword; Elizabeth’s menu ditches mushroom soup for a sweeter starter, a chilled broth that blends pureed strawberries & oranges into something that succeeds as a refreshing recipe for these heat-troubled times. RM15.

Coffee-scented Risotto with Mussels

Coffee-scented risotto with mussels (RM38 nett). The execution for some of these could be fine-tuned though; this rice is mushier than necessary, while the fragrance of coffee seems illusory. Still, the idea itself is nice, so there’s certainly hope.

Blackcurrant Duck

No lack of meat on offer: Everything from blackcurrant duck (RM33), a fun way to feast on fowl …

Chicken Confit

… to chicken confit (RM23) with buttered peas, olives & an herbal medley of sage, rosemary & thyme (no parsley? heh) …

Lamb Rack with Fried Bread

… to lamb rack with fried bread (RM48), a main course that illustrates Elizabeth’s strengths & weaknesses all on one plate.

Final Thoughts

This restaurant deserves admiration for its ambition & its passion to produce interesting dishes, so we hope it’ll take time to reflect on how to make its ingredients really shine & leave a memorable impression.

Elizabeth is located incongruously inside Setiawalk’s Grand Shanghai Food Theme Park; it’s an odd neighbour for the dim sum & bak kut teh restaurants that populate this fourth-floor section of the complex beneath the TGV multiplex.