July 5th, 2022
Cafe de Paris at Pavilion: Restaurant Review
Bringing a slice of its namesake city to KL’s Pavilion mall (buttressed by a bit of the Eiffel Tower), this French-inspired bistro bids ‘bon appetit’ with a sweeping menu that spans bouillabaisse to boeuf bourguignon.
Cafe de Paris is a fun new venue, spearheaded by the folks who run La Boca Latino Bar on the far side of Pavilion’s street-level Connection corridor of restaurants.
At first blush, this place might appear gimmicky, but its menu renders reassurance of Cafe de Paris’ aspiration to authenticity; start with sourdough, served with Lescure French butter & Bonne Maman preserves (RM12).
The ideal introduction to Cafe de Paris begins in the morning; breakfast is served 8am through noon.
Items include a Dr Seuss-approved plate of scrambled eggs _ turned a potentially garish green with pesto _ accompanied by turkey ham on toast (RM19).
Cafe de Paris’ current version of the classic croque-madame (RM22) is a little less cheesy than expected; certainly more Hollandaise than Gruyere, risking condemnation from conservatives.
What’s for lunch? Cafe de Paris’ tartines prove pretty tasty, with three very cheesy ones (making up for the croque-madame’s lack of it) costing RM19, thickly topped with the likes of camembert cheese, walnuts & fig jam, or roast beef, blue cheese & caramelised onions, or tapenade, feta cheese & olives.
Vintage Brittany sardines (RM29), aged in the can with olive oil for several years; firm-fleshed fish, with what might be considered a marginally more mellow flavour compared to typical sardines.
Camembert makes a comeback in fine fashion, baked to warm, creamy softness with vermouth liquor, thyme & garlic. RM28.
Cafe de Paris takes pride in its patisserie-style display, with treats provided by a Le Cordon Bleu-trained pastry chef.
Chocolate seizes centre stage; surprisingly, the eclairs miss the mark though, tasting a bit too mass-market, without sufficient depth of flavour or sumptuousness in texture.
The Paris-Brest fares better, with choux pastry & praline cream. But ultimately, the customers who enjoy this best might be the ones who’re fortunate enough to order it at its first-day freshest.
Macarons here range in flavour from salted caramel to pistachio, scoring a solid B (or possibly a B-plus) for satisfaction.
What impressed us the most: The Parisian Fairy (RM28), a total knock-out, the most potent absinthe cocktail we’ve experienced in KL, mixed with gin, lemon juice, pineapple juice & simple syrup.
Cava or coffee? The former remains mercifully available till very late (it’s possible to head into Cafe de Paris past midnight & still plead for a full meal, particularly on weekends); the latter’s labelled an ‘Asterix,’ a single espresso with equal parts milk (RM9).
Final Thoughts on Cafe de Paris
Cafe de Paris features some lovely table & wall art, enchantingly evocative.
Lot 3.06.00, Level 3, Pavilion, Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur
View Cafe de Paris’ directory page here.
What are your thoughts about Cafe de Paris? Post a thought in the comments below.