Lai Po Heen at Mandarin Oriental Welcomes Chef Thomas Fong from Doha
April 24th, 2024
Dónde está la taqueria? Opening this week in Mid Valley, Panchos claims it serves the city’s tastiest tacos, burritos & quesadillas; there are a couple of other contenders in KL for that crown, but fortunately, this isn’t entirely an empty boast – Panchos’ food harbours lively, full-bodied flavours that linger in the memory, mirroring its founders’ confidence.
Panchos does justice to the fundamentals of a taco shop – customers can choose from soft flour tortillas or crispy shell corn versions, filled with one of the following five – smoky chipotle slow-roasted pulled beef, slow-braised sweet-sticky beef brisket, flame-grilled herb chicken, picante chilli chicken or pan-fried fish – plus pico de gallo, lettuce, sour cream, cheese & lime. Convincingly textured, with an unmistakable vitality in taste that’s a testament to Panchos’ kitchen-produced marinades & fillings, which reputedly include pinto beans from Mexico, made-from-scratch salsa & market-fresh tomatoes, cilantro & onions.
Panchos’ burritos are possibly even more enjoyable; have ’em rolled in a warm, whole-wheat tortilla or in a cardboard ‘bowl’ without the tortilla; either is hearty enough for a filling meal at RM16.90. While Mexican food has its admirers in KL, it still boasts more of a cult following than true mass appeal; Panchos’ accessibility – extending to its easy-to-like flavours, its fair prices & convenient venue near the GSC multiplex’s ticketing counter – could play a part in promoting a Mexican food wave.
Nachos (RM18.90) & quesadillas (RM14.90) are available too, though these may not stand out as much as the tacos & the burritos. Order a beef filling if you like prefer robust dynamics & heftier dimensions, & add extra guacamole (the rendition here is juicy rather than creamy, with a raw zing & rich zest). Trivia: Panchos is founded by KL-based couple Thomas & Jennifer, who’ll be familiar to folks who’ve patronised their previous project, a private kitchen called Jumak Dining. Thomas is Korean, but his gastronomic influences are genuinely global, having spent years continent-hopping through Mexico, the UK & Australia.
One more tip: Don’t overlook the sauce counter, not noticeably tucked beside the slushie machine, where customers can choose hot seasonings & sliced jalapeno peppers to spice up their meal. The extra heat is worthwhile & can be enjoyably washed down with a bottle of Jarritos – refreshing Mexican soft drinks in fruit flavours like grapefruit, pineapple or tamarind.
Panchos Mexican Taqueria
Level 3 Mezzanine, Mid Valley Megamall
Tel: +60125031014