Looks deceive: Laguna Mabuhay might seem like a sterile, surprise-free outlet from outside, but in terms of its food, this is one of 2013’s most distinctive new eateries.

1 Laguna Mabuhay Aug 20

The Philippine clientele, especially strong on Sunday afternoons, is enough to indicate what cuisine is offered here; Laguna Mabuhay is the Filipino eatery that KL has long needed, with a menu that outstrips the now-closed Cagayan’s at Bandar Utama’s Centrepoint. 2 Laguna Mabuhay Aug 20

Laguna Mabuhay makes no concessions to Malaysians; its menu lists dishes in Tagalog without English translations. Bring a Filipino friend to help explain.

Sisig

Start with “sisig” (RM12), the super-addictive sizzling recipe of pork ears & jowl, cooked with calamansi & chilies, flooded with egg for extra flavor. Even the squeamish might be stunned to find themselves enjoying this.

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Kinilaw

“Kinilaw” (RM25), the Filipino interpretation of ceviche, a tangy salad-like mix of raw tenggiri fish (cooked not with heat but citrus juices), salted egg & pork strips.

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Kare-kare

“Kare-kare” (RM18), a creamy comfort-food stew of beef & veggies prepared in peanut sauce, served with salted shrimp paste for absolute authenticity.

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Morcon

“Morcon” (RM28) means pork rolls stuffed with hard-boiled eggs, sausage meat & carrots.

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Pinaputok Na Bangu

“Pinaputok Na Bangu” (RM22), milk fish stuffed with tomatoes, ginger & onions, grilled & served with a spicy dipping sauce.

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Lechon Kawali

“Lechon kawali” (RM18), Filipino deep-fried pork belly, also known as evil incarnate. More tender than it looks; like a cross between ‘siu yuk’ & fast-food-style fried chicken.

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Garlic Rice

Much of the food here screams out for rice. Ask for some aromatically laced with crispy garlic.

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Location and Operating Hours

Laguna Mabuhay,

3, Jalan Gereja, Kuala Lumpur.

Drive past Lebuh Ampang’s Ming Annexe, then park at the open-air lot. Laguna Mabuhay is less than 50 meters up the road, before the turnoff up to St John’s.

Open daily through 9:30pm

View Laguna Mabuhay’s directory page here.

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