Lai Po Heen at Mandarin Oriental Welcomes Chef Thomas Fong from Doha
April 24th, 2024
Compensating for the loss of its Equatorial venue, Kampachi flung open the doors this weekend to a Petaling Jaya spin-off that heralds a sure-to-be-successful new chapter in this very venerable brand’s scrumptious saga of sushi-making.
Kampachi in The Plaza at Jaya 33 is a little more Pavilion and a little less Troika as far as comparisons to Kampachi’s other outposts go, centered on a casualness that could cater to suburban PJ families reluctant to drive to downtown KL for their Japanese food fix.
A salad of crunchy-not-oily salmon skin and roe (RM28++) starts us out in a delicious direction.
Freshly flown into the country at daybreak, served at Kampachi well before nightfall.
Kampachi’s sashimi soars: the “tobiou” flying fish (RM70++ for half) proves lustrously lovable, as creamy-smooth as a Kree Harrison croon.
Prices can be predictably punishing, but let’s roll with it: Kampachi’s signature maki (RM58++) allies thick, tender cuts of eel with tuna, avocado and crab stick.
Crisply moreish soft-shell crab maki (RM50++), bounteously stuffed to merit the cost.
Rolled beef teppanyaki with garlic and spring onions (RM22++ for three pieces) would taste terrific even on its own _ but coupled with a special sauce of tosa shoyu, mushroom broth, black truffles and olive oil, it’s a masterclass in meat.
Octopus karaage (RM18++), unassailable in terms of its addictive crunch, with notes of the ocean singing through each resonantly briny slice.
Grilled pomfret marinated with barley seasoning (RM48++). Striking in its sodium content, though one customer’s salty could be another’s savory.
House-made, hand-made soba (RM36++), fresh and firm, served cold with duck meat sauce.
Deep-fried imported pumpkin in tempura batter (RM30++), denser than the norm but still very creamy. Alas, by now, we were too full to order the menu’s other temptations, comprising the likes of anglerfish liver, stewed beef tongue, mizuna salad with crispy anchovies and snapper fillet with sea urchin.
Still, there’s always space for Kampachi’s beloved ‘mochi’ rice cakes, warmly nut-coated.
Creative cocktails keep us happy: Moshiso (gold rum, shiso leaf, soda water, sweet sour) and Sake-Tini (piccolo tea, ume shu, gin).
Turning green with ecstasy: Macha Lemon (with gin and sour mix) and Macha Whisky (mixed with Japanese whisky and green tea ice cream).
Asahina Gyokuro (RM32++ per pot), crowned by some as the “king of green tea”, with a flavor that’s supposed to be evocative of seaweed.
Our forecast is for hot teppanyaki and cold matcha ice cream: Come rain or shine, folks will be flocking to this Kampachi’s Sunday lunch buffets (RM118++ for adults).
Some fun pod-like seating, a novelty that could endear Kampachi to a new generation.
Mohd Aizzar and the entire team exude a warm, polished professionalism.
Entry on Kampachi at Equatorial Hotel (currently closed): Oct, 2010.
Entry on Kampachi at The Troika: Dec 8, 2012.
Kampachi Japanese Restaurant at PJ Jaya33,
1st Floor, The Plaza at Jaya33, Petaling Jaya.
Tel: 012-911-9094