Kakigori at Taman Paramount, Petaling Jaya: Preview

Break the ice at Kakigori (opening Sept. 10), which promises Japanese shaved ice desserts that play it cool with distinctively spirited flourishes – a sub-zero remedy for the Klang Valley’s perpetual summer, supplying succour like snowfall in the Sahara.

The venue is meant to resemble an ice factory, warmed by the unexpected presence of a garden-like centrepiece that evokes a children’s playhouse, surrounded by custom-constructed furnishing inspired by origami motifs, with tables and chairs whose ‘feet’ mimic those of both humans and birds. You’ll also note caricatures of a mysterious mascot nicknamed Yuki, a ‘snow lady’ whose tale is inscribed on Kakigori’s menu (long story short: she needs to consume frosty fare to save herself from melting).

It’s ice to meet you: Kakigori’s founders are the three Beh siblings, who also spearhead Bangsar South’s Thirdwave cafe – these cool cats say they’ve always loved air-conditioning and chilled treats, so when they discovered Japan’s kakigori, they were determined to launch a venue dedicated to this dessert.

Tea-based

After scouring Tokyo for all the kakigori they could eat, they’re ready to unveil no fewer than ten wintry creations – traditionalists can start with the tea-based interpretations: Hojicha kakigori with candied chestnuts and kinako milk (RM17) and the Uji Matcha kakigori with red beans, own-made warabimochi and kinako milk (RM17), relying on tea cultivated by Kyoto’s revered Marukyu-Koyamaen. The Beh siblings uphold exacting standards, sourcing clear, strong ice shaved into smooth, ultra-light shards that melt slowly, complemented by natural, seasonal produce.

Savoury

Kakigori’s versions emulate the most recent wave offered by Japan’s speciality stores, imbued with the new-millennium thrill of experimentation. You’ll find recipes that challenge perceptions and broaden the horizons of our palates – the Shoyu kakigori conveys an umami resonance that’s rare in sweets, made textured with dango rice dumplings and balanced with kinako powder (RM14), while the Japanese pumpkin kakigori is a creamy dream come true, buoyed by a potent burnt caramel sauce (RM15).

Malaysian-inspired

Some of these big chills convincingly channel cherished Malaysian flavours – tau foo fah acolytes might be smitten by the Ginger Tofu kakigori, which melds morsels of a super-silky tofu pudding with sweet puffed rice to revive memories of childhood snacks (RM15), while apam balik disciples can find cold comfort in kakigori snowed in with corn puree, a milky coconut espuma and toasted nuts (RM17). Kakigori worked on numerous recipes frozen down to these final ten; you can expect specials to pop up from time to time – perhaps a mooncake-inspired kakigori in 2017, or even a spicy-sour tom yum kakigori?

Fruity

Fruits are dressed to chill at Kakigori – watermelon puree (strictly no artificial colouring or concentrates here) with the unmistakable floral fragrance of rose espuma, berries and grapes (RM17) and guava with jelly and plum salt (jeruk jambu, anyone?).

Traditional dessert

Our favourite kakigori is predictable – avocado with pistachios (RM18), its delicate purity shining in every biting-cold spoonful. For an even safer choice, the tiramisu kakigori is a portrait of frigid familiarity, insulated by inventive brushstrokes of coffee espuma and Valrhona chocolate (RM16) – only the tip of the iceberg of Kakigori’s capabilities. Pack your mittens, hats and scarves and head to this brrrrrr-and new venue soon – what’s cooler than cool? Ice-cold, indeed. Thanks to Kakigori for having us.