Secret 009 Kalacs at Publika: Bakery Review

Hungarian “chimney cakes,” a traditional pastry born in Transylvannia and known in the Slavic languages as “kurtos kalacs,” is the carb-heavy highlight of this new little cafe in Publika, headed by a Hungarian baker.

Baked Fresh On-Site

Kalacs are made fresh here; many businesses in Hungary supposedly have their own secret recipes to make theirs better than their rivals’ renditions. That holds true for this KL outlet too, which explains the name “Secret 009 Kalacs.”

Roll, Roll, Roll Your Dough

These might be called cakes, but they’re more like tubular loaves. Thick, yeasty ribbons are wound around metal rods before the baking begins.

Takes little time to make (a matter of minutes); the golden-brown, straight-from-the-special-oven results seem worth the wait.

Toppings

Once ready, the kalacs are flavored with choices that range from cinnamon to coconut flakes.

A Cross Between Pretzels and Doughnuts

Try the original first, sprinkled with sugar on the crisp kalac crust that protects a soft interior. Kinda like a cross between pretzels and doughnuts.

Nutty

Kalacs coated with walnuts, cashews or peanuts are also available, for a better crunch.

A Simple Snack

Each kalac costs roughly RM6; two people can easily share one for a simple snack.

Dreams of Hungarian Dining

Let’s hope the owners of Secret 009 Kalacs harbor secret ambitions of opening a full-fledged Hungarian restaurant in KL someday, one that serves hearty Goulash stews, Dobos cakes and Palinka fruit brandies.

Jam for Dipping

Passion fruit jam, for customers who consider the kalacs too bland. Surprisingly luscious and tangy-not-tart, an amazing accompaniment for the hot pastries.