February 25th, 2021
Row Cafe at Doraisamy: Restaurant Review
Row Cafe is another recent entry on the revived Doraisamy Road, though it’s not a formal member of The Row’s main strip of F&B businesses. We were initially sceptical about it, since it seemed reminiscent of the boisterous watering holes that epitomised Asian Heritage Row’s slide into sleaze several years ago. But its greet-&-meet team at the entrance was sincerely enthusiastic enough to coax us inside – the menu was a pleasant surprise, with a handful of ambitious dishes to complement the run-of-the-mill crowd-pleasers.
The foie gras with a delicately creamy avocado panna cotta, poached pears & balsamic reduction was capably executed, at a cost of RM39.90 that hurled us back to 2005. Other potential highlights range from pan-seared yellow-fin tuna with basil pistachio puree (RM23.90) to roasted cod fish with saffron risotto (RM69.90).
Wine & Music
The house red wine (whose identity remains unidentified on the menu) is an innocuous choice at RM18 per glass. Live music is also offered.
Location & Details
13, 15 & 17, Jalan Doraisamy, Kuala Lumpur.