Root Cellar KL at Seven Cups, Empire Damansara: Review

One of the Klang Valley’s most satisfying F&B collaborations takes shape this month at Seven Cups, which is hosting the creative cooks of the KL-born Root Cellar initiative in a pop-up kitchen that makes lovely use of Empire Damansara’s outdoors.

Pom Chicken & Dinosaur Egg

Take a table outside (or inside the cafe, if the weather isn’t too kind) & make sure your first order is the Pom Chicken & Dinosaur Egg – it’s one of the most delicious dishes we’ve enjoyed so far in October, a flavourful medley of tender pomegranate molasses grilled chicken legs with half a hard-boiled, coffee-infused egg, yoghurt & moist buttered rice pilaf (RM24). The pop-up operates everyday for dinner (6pm-10pm, Monday-Saturday) & at 11am-8pm Sundays, until Oct. 31.

Tender Me Brisket

If the Tender Me Brisket tastes familiar, it might be because of the beef brisket, a signature of Root Cellar founder Basira Yeusuff, formerly of Bangsar’s Fancy Breakfast Club. The brisket is a robust recipe that Basira has served at food markets, catering events & supper clubs for years, partnered here with jalapenos, pickled red onions & cheese in a toasted roll for something substantial to sink your teeth into (RM24). Root Cellar’s painstaking attention to detail is key: the brisket takes six hours to braise – the same amount of time to prepare the hand-cut potato crisps. Even the salad leaves on the side are well-chosen. Plus, the pop-up does all its own pickling, so don’t let the jars of lightly tangy cauliflowers on each table go to waste.

The Big Itzik

If you’re trying to evoke the feel of a picnic in the park, binge on The Big Itzik – a grilled chicken sausage in a chive-&-garlic roll (Basira obtains both the bratwurst & bread from trusted sources), stuffed with roasted aubergines, peppers, a slick of hummus & feta cheese for another confidently conceived, expertly executed triumph that succeeds as contemporary soul food (RM22).

Seven Cups is also serving Root Cellar’s grab-&-go sandwiches & desserts, all day long, everyday, so if you’re looking for lunch or tea at Empire Damansara, check out the assortment of made-fresh-daily sandwiches – What The Duck (RM16) is our best bet, an Oriental-influenced treat spilling over with duck, hoisin, mayo, cucumber & wantan skin, though we’re also tempted by options like the Salmon Ninja, Christmas Kinda, Egg + Ebiko, & Beef Meshwiya – as well as baked delights like the Limau Nipis Bundt Cake (RM13 a slice), which memorably balances zesty nuances with a rich creaminess. A great, gorgeous cake.

It’s fantastic to now be able to savour food at Seven Cups – it’s been a cafe we’ve appreciated for coffee since the beginning, but since this is primarily a caffeine bar, it’s taken a long & careful route in selecting collaborators for its selection of food. Another new offering this year at Seven Cups is ice cream cookie sandwiches, perfect for the young at heart, featuring luscious ice cream with various toppings & drizzles in between crunchy house-baked cookies. You’ll find vanilla ice cream with cornflake marshmallow cookies, or Valrhona chocolate with sea-salted Belgian fudge cookies, toasted pistachios & cranberries, & more. Have ’em with top-notch coffee creations – the iced lime black brew (RM13) is wonderfully refreshing, & the ever-evolving blends from Nylon Roasters are well worthwhile too. Many thanks to Seven Cups for having us here.