Roost at Telawi, Bangsar: Restaurant Review

Danish chef Albert Frantzen, his Taiwanese partner Tung Wei & Malaysian friend Priscilla rule the roost at this new restaurant, replacing F By Buffalo Kitchens this week with a ‘farm-to-fork’ philosophy that’s propelling some of Telawi’s tastiest triumphs.

For A Leisurely Dinner

Roost’s setting has seen a facelift in line with its refreshed name & theme; this mural by visiting Danish artist Arthur Tudsborg creates a calming effect that partners perfectly with the welcoming mood of this first-floor outlet. Take the stairs up to one of Bangsar’s loveliest, friendliest & most comfortable eateries for a leisurely dinner.

Well-Thought-Out Creations

Roost’s menu bursts with well-thought-out creations spilling out of Frantzen’s open kitchen; most of the produce is locally & responsibly sourced, secured from various Malaysian farms & suppliers, except for the grass-fed Angus beef & the lamb.

Applewood-Smoked Duck Breast

Start with the applewood-smoked, free-range duck breast with browned butter puree & pomegranates (RM18). A name like Roost indicates that fowl is a cornerstone of the menu; sure enough, there’s also duck ragout with hand-cut pappardelle, duck liver pate with tomato jam & duck breast that’s been house-cured for a week.

Chicken Roulade

Roulade of soft-&-smooth, sous-vide chicken breast, skin & paste with polenta & browned onion puree (RM35). Chicken innards also receive their due at Roost – by next week, once the kitchen is in full swing, expect to see a reinterpretation of the Lyonnaise-inspired frisee salad, with confit of chicken heart, liver & gizzard combined with a 63-degree egg (RM22).

Deep-Fried Frog Legs

Breadcrumbed deep-fried frog legs (freshly slaughtered in Roost’s kitchen in the morning & served in the evening) with thick, house-made tamarind jam (RM16), a firm favourite of Tung Wei & Priscilla. Flavours here are subtle but nuanced, perhaps part of Frantzen’s culinary influence – not intimidatingly intense or overbearingly punchy.

Cocktails, Craft Beers and Wine

Cocktails, craft beers & wines are also available (we’ll explore those in a future entry). For teetotalers, Roleaf tea is also offered. Note that one of the major changes here is that Roost – unlike F By Buffalo Kitchens – is a no-pork restaurant.