January 8th, 2021
Deuce KL, Solaris Dutamas: Restaurant Review
In the maze that is Solaris Dutamas, one can expect to find almost any cuisine one desires. Chicken rice? You got it. Gelato and coffee topped with candyfloss? They are there, if you know where to look. When it comes to the really hidden gems of the area, however, Deuce KL sits comfortably at the top of our current list. The restaurant serves modern European cuisine, where the dishes’ flavour profiles range from the familiar like tomato chutney, to the new and welcomed, like cognac cream. We had the pleasure of dining at Deuce KL some time ago, when the restaurant launched its refreshed menu.
With a portfolio that includes being Sous Chef at The Tippling Club, Singapore, you can expect nothing but delicious creativity from Deuce KL’s head chef Hun Yan. Deuce KL’s menu comprises snacks, small plates, big plates, and desserts. We started with the Assam cured mackerel with a laksa salad (RM27). Seasoned well, this rendition immediately called the traditional laksa dish to mind, but in an innovative new way. The fried vermicelli on top contributed a nice crunch to the otherwise satisfying bites of mackerel.
Next came the Seared romaine lettuce with cured sardines, Parmesan and fish roe dressing, and shaved egg yolk (RM28). Slightly creamy without being overwhelmingly cheesy, the Parmesan and fish roe dressing was complemented well by the saltiness of the cured mackerel.
Moving on to what was our favourite dish, do give the Grilled octopus with tomato chutney, turmeric crushed potatoes, and spinach puree (RM58) a try if you visit the restaurant. The octopus was cooked perfectly with a beautiful char on the outside and a sweet tenderness reminiscent of an abalone slice on the inside. If anybody ever tells you that grilled octopus is supposed to be tough and chewy, call their bluff and bring them to Deuce KL. We were very pleasantly surprised at how well the unconventional components of this dish came together beautifully. A citrusy zing from the chutney, spice from the potato, and creaminess from the spinach puree truly brought out the yumminess of the grilled tentacle.
The Spicy chicken slider with Chinese slaw and ‘Lao Kan Ma’ mayo (RM35) was tasty too. The instant we bit into it, memories of chicken rice flooded our palate. The culprit? Sneaky dollops of ginger paste that made this dish memorable.
The 96-hour lamb pastrami with Gruyere, parsley salad, and grainy mustard (RM75) is, unsurprisingly, a good choice for those who love meat, cheese, and bread. It is the stuff of a sandwich lover’s dreams. The bread was fragrant, having been toasted over a charcoal grill. We put all the ingredients together, and had ourselves a grand lamb sandwich.
Finally resigning to our dessert stomachs, we had the Coconut and celery with coconut sorbet, sago, cashew nut brittle, and celery granita (RM22) first. Whatever apprehension we had with celery being in our dessert was gone the moment we tasted it. Yes, there was still a light celery flavour, but the tanginess of the granita combined with the rich coconut sorbet and sago, along with the sweet crunch of the brittle worked great together. We couldn’t stop slurping this up.
Mentioning cognac cream in the beginning was deliberate. Deuce KL’s Cognac cream with puff pastry and orange marmalade (RM22) should be one’s go-to for an indulgent, interesting dessert. The cream was luxurious. The marmalade was sweet with little hints of bitterness. The puff pastry was smoked just before being served and it was wonderfully aromatic.
Safe to say, we are fans and the next trip to Deuce KL can’t come soon enough!
Location & Details
Address: Deuce KL, D1-G4-06, Solaris Dutamas, 50480 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: +603 6211 2822
Hours: Daily, 6pm to 12am
Find: View directory for Deuce KL here.
*This article originally appeared in The Expat July 2018.