Nero Nero at DC Mall, Damansara City: Restaurant review

With a charming fountain centrepiece and garden terrace, DC Mall’s latest restaurant is a destination with a distinctive decor, ideal for an idyllic meal. Nero Nero is not merely a pretty place though – chef Carmine De Filippo and his team strive to broaden the frontiers of KL’s Italian restaurants, staking their claim to ‘California Italian’ cooking, fusing the spirit of L.A. and la dolce vita  with a focus on produce-driven recipes, prepared with passion and professionalism.

Starters

The menu could conveniently be categorised as contemporary Italian, with fresh protein and plenty of vibrant vegetables forming the cornerstones, put together with the skill and experience of an authentic artisan. Chef Carmine has been part of restaurant kitchen since he was 16, and his work has taken him everywhere from Switzerland to Hong Kong, with senior stints at five-star hotels in Dhaka and Kuwait. That means customers should be able to rest easy from the start of the meal, which might include deliciously creamy and flavoursome eggplant timbale with mozzarella and tomato sauce (RM30), addictive breaded risotto balls with beef ragu and gooey cheese (RM28) and crispy calamari in semolina flour with tartar sauce (RM32). Chef Carmine’s enthusiasm is notably infectious, bringing a burst of interesting ideas at Nero Nero (ask the staff about the game of chance played here that could win you a complimentary meal, or about the privilege card for loyal customers), highlighted as well by the colourful lunch menu that he’s crafted in a homage to the renowned cities of his homeland.

Italian flavours

Pastas and pizzas prepared from scratch the kitchen are another highlight – it’s a pleasure to bite into the warm, tender ravioli, stuffed with meaty oxtail and ricotta cheese, made tangy with a cherry tomato sauce (RM44), and the potato gnocchi in an unmistakably aromatic black truffle cream sauce (RM55). Chef Carmine’s family runs a few pizzerias in Naples, so the man knows his dough, proofed for 24 hours, ensuring a satisfactory base in both taste and texture for toppings like the classic margherita, a sacrament of simplicity with the fundamentals of mozzarella, tomato sauce and basil (RM28).

Main and desserts

We saved the best for (nearly) last though – our favourite recipe at Nero Nero is the oven-baked whole sea bass, fleshy and succulent, impeccably executed to preserve the natural, moist sweetness of this fish, well-complemented by potatoes, zucchini, cherry tomatoes and black olives (RM120). If you still have space for sweets after that main course, familiar favourites like a chocolate lava cake and ice cream (RM28) and achingly luscious tiramisu (RM28) beckon.

Location & Details

Address: L03-02, DC Mall, Jalan Damanlela, Kuala Lumpur.
Hours: Mon-Sat, 12pm-11pm.
Tel: +603-20113811
Find: View directory for Nero Nero here.