Koryori Enoshima at Wisma Cosway, Raja Chulan

It’s the circle of life: Koryori Enoshima has replaced Ozeki Italian Cuisine, which closed at Wisma Cosway after only a year in business. The place has been refurbished extensively, for a fresh, contemporary feel. Sorta nice, actually.

Seafood

Enoshima’s menu is a canny mix of conservative favorites and newfangled fare; begin with this innocuous complimentary amuse bouche of fried snapper and salmon.

Konnyaku sashimi (RM14++), the gelatinous “devil’s tongue” root-plant jelly, sliced thinly and served sashimi-style with mustard-miso dip. Kinda fun; the texture matters more than the taste.

Prefer raw fish? The flying fish sashimi should satisfy, but at the steeper cost of RM38++.

Wagyu Beef

Keeping it simple: Wagyu beef kushiyaki (RM25++), a meaty skewer well-marinated enough that it needs no togarashi spices for seasoning.

Italian Influences

Enoshima maintains a smidgen of its predecessor’s Italian influences, obvious in this piping-hot combo of tuna sashimi, grated yam and mozzarella cheese (RM22++).

Shirasu baby sardine and spring onion pizza (RM16++), sufficiently unusual to entice the curious.

Sake

Sake is available, as are wine and shochu-fruit combos like this one with tangy grapefruit.

Ozeki Italian Cuisine might be gone, but signs of its existence linger. All in all, Enoshima’s a good-enough Japanese restaurant, though it lacks much of Ozeki’s ambition.