Koikeshoten is scarcely a week old, but it instantly secures pole position as our current favourite kushiyaki bar in KL – chef Norio Koike has been part of some of the Klang Valley’s most smoking-good Japanese eateries over the past six years, including Ri-Yakitori, Shuraku, Maruhi Sakaba and Fukuda, and his work at this new restaurant seems to burn brighter than ever.

1. Koikeshoten

2. Koikeshoten

3. Koikeshoten

4. Koikeshoten

Skewers

Start with the skewers – the eel (RM25) restores our faith in how drop-dead divine unagi can be, the Wagyu beef (RM21) is a sacrament of sheer succulence, and the ebi (RM18 for two pieces) is perfectly prepared enough to inspire psalms of adoration. Collectively costly, but potently pleasurable. Especially the eel.

5. Koikeshoten

6. Koikeshoten

7.Koikeshoten

The complete range of chicken-based yakitori is available, each of which met or exceeded our eager expectations, setting the bar for what grilled fowl can and should be – chicken tenderloin seasoned with plum (RM5), thigh meat (RM6), heart (RM5), liver (RM5; delicious), bishop’s nose (RM4; definitely yes), skin (RM4; flawless in its crispy-juicy balance) and wings (RM9).

8. Koikeshoten

9. Koikeshoten

10. Koikeshoten

11, Koikeshoten

12. Koikeshoten

13. Koikeshoten

14. Koikeshoten

Chicken sashimi

Koikeshoten is one of KL’s few Japanese eateries that offer chicken sashimi (RM25), so take the opportunity to order this barely-cooked, acquired-taste treat – it’s free-range, safe and tastes wholesome. Intrepid diners can also check out the wasabi stem sushi roll (RM21), explosive enough to warrant an advisory (consume slowly, with caution, or risk a coughing fit).

16. Koikeshoten

17. Koikeshoten

Okonomiyaki

Koikeshoten’s okonomiyaki merits a special mention, ranking among the best Japanese savoury pancakes we’ve had in KL, thick and so beautifully textured, a quantum leap forward from stodgy, doughy or greasy renditions. We chose the mentaiko okonomiyaki (RM30) but you’ll also find versions stuffed with squid (RM18), shrimp (RM24), oysters (RM20) and cheese (RM20).

18. Koikeshoten

19. Koikeshoten

Kushiyaki and beyond

It should be clear by now that Koikeshoten’s repertoire extends beyond kushiyaki – impressively, everything we tried proved unimpeachable, signalling the seriousness of this quietly confident kitchen. Rice topped with sea urchin and a poached egg is the pinnacle of decadent flavours (RM35), while deep-fried chicken gizzards are addictive enough to convert even those of us who don’t typically adore gizzard (RM16).

20. Koikeshoten

21. Koikeshoten

22. Koikeshoten

Snacks

Snack also on fun tidbits like Japanese mountain yam topped with a quail’s egg and cypress seeds known also as land caviar (RM11), maitake mushrooms (RM7) and spicy-crunchy pickled celery (RM11), washed down with alcohol galore – Koikeshoten supplies everything we really need, from whiskey and shochu to wine, sake and beer.

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24. Koikeshoten

25. Koikeshoten

26. Koikeshoten

27. Koikeshoten

28. Koikeshoten

29. Koikeshoten

Location & Details

Koike Shoten

8, Jalan Telawi, Bangsar Baru, Kuala Lumpur. Look for Domino’s.

Open for dinner from 6pm (last orders at about 1030pm).

Tel: +603-2856-7307

Find: View directory for Koikeshoten here