Lai Po Heen at Mandarin Oriental Welcomes Chef Thomas Fong from Doha
April 24th, 2024
A fresh face that’s become an instant contender for Cyberjaya’s best Japanese restaurant.
The kitchen here’s headed by Chef James Wong, formerly of Ozeki Tokyo Cuisine, which explains the experimental streak in recipes like this mix of Japanese pickled shallots, sweet tomatoes & mango in wasabi sauce (RM22++).
Jellyfish with Thai-style mango salad? It works; a complimentary starter, much appreciated.
Italian influences surface for the ‘tako carpaccio’ (RM19++), thinly sliced boiled octopus garnished with garlic, capers, olives and extra virgin olive oil.
Shrimp, avocado, Japanese yam and pommery mustard (RM32++).
Don’t often see beef tripe at Malaysia’s Japanese restaurants. Kiraku’s pan-fried preparation (RM25++) is enjoyable enough to leave us wanting more.
Foie gras teriyaki (RM68++), less uncommon but no less worthwhile.
Skip the sashimi platter. Not wholly worth the RM68++.
Can’t usually resist salted cuttlefish entrails (RM12++), but Kiraku’s is too stinky even for us.
Redemption emerges in the three-way radish platter, topped individually with sauces of foie gras, citrus fruit and spring onion.
Hurray for kushiyaki: Juicy skewer-grilled beef tongue and chicken skin, gizzard and bishop’s nose.
Chicken soft bone and tiny-crispy shrimp, for mindless munching, mainly.
Kiraku’s house special maki (RM25++) is interesting: that’s bright-red chili coating each slice, stuffed with prawns plus green apples and mango to subdue the spiciness.
A row of mini soft-shell crab hand rolls, impeccably prepared. Very nice.
Unagi kabayaki (RM65++). Also excellent, though eel has become ridiculously pricey.
Complimentary dessert: sweet potato and yam cakes, wasabi pudding and coconut creme brulee.
Two distinctly different Mojitos, one with shochu and cilantro, the other with rum and watermelon.
Sake is available, as is wine (only by the not-too-expensive bottle for the latter).
Kiraku also has private teppanyaki rooms, where the kitchen team reputedly puts on a fun show. Service here lives up to the standards set by the cuisine.