Kampachi at Jaya 33: Restaurant Review

Compensating for the loss of its Equatorial venue, Kampachi flung open the doors this weekend to a Petaling Jaya spin-off that heralds a sure-to-be-successful new chapter in this very venerable brand’s scrumptious saga of sushi-making.

Kampachi in The Plaza @ Jaya 33 is a little more Pavilion & a little less Troika as far as comparisons to Kampachi’s other outposts go, centered on a casualness that could cater to suburban PJ families reluctant to drive to downtown KL for their Japanese food fix.

Salmon Skin and Roe

A salad of crunchy-not-oily salmon skin & roe (RM28++) starts us out in a delicious direction.

Fish

Freshly flown into the country at daybreak, served at Kampachi well before nightfall.

Sashimi

Kampachi’s sashimi soars: the “tobiou” flying fish (RM70++ for half) proves lustrously lovable, as creamy-smooth as a Kree Harrison croon.

Maki

Prices can be predictably punishing, but let’s roll with it: Kampachi’s signature maki (RM58++) allies thick, tender cuts of eel with tuna, avocado & crab stick.

Crisply moreish soft-shell crab maki (RM50++), bounteously stuffed to merit the cost.

Teppanyaki

Rolled beef teppanyaki with garlic & spring onions (RM22++ for three pieces) would taste terrific even on its own _ but coupled with a special sauce of tosa shoyu, mushroom broth, black truffles & olive oil, it’s a masterclass in meat.

Octopus Karaage

Octopus karaage (RM18++), unassailable in terms of its addictive crunch, with notes of the ocean singing through each resonantly briny slice.

Grilled Pomfret

Grilled pomfret marinated with barley seasoning (RM48++). Striking in its sodium content, though one customer’s salty could be another’s savory.

Soba Ramen

House-made, hand-made soba (RM36++), fresh & firm, served cold with duck meat sauce.

Pumpkin Tempura

Deep-fried imported pumpkin in tempura batter (RM30++), denser than the norm but still very creamy.

Dessert

Still, there’s always space for Kampachi’s beloved ‘mochi’ rice cakes, warmly nut-coated.

Beverages

Creative cocktails keep us happy: Moshiso (gold rum, shiso leaf, soda water, sweet sour) & Sake-Tini (piccolo tea, ume shu, gin).

Turning green with ecstasy: Macha Lemon (with gin & sour mix) & Macha Whisky (mixed with Japanese whisky & green tea ice cream).

Asahina Gyokuro (RM32++ per pot), crowned by some as the “king of green tea,” with a flavor that’s supposed to be evocative of seaweed.

Final Thoughts

Alas, by now, we were too full to order the menu’s other temptations, comprising the likes of anglerfish liver, stewed beef tongue, mizuna salad with crispy anchovies & snapper fillet with sea urchin.

Our forecast is for hot teppanyaki & cold matcha ice cream: Come rain or shine, folks will be flocking to this Kampachi’s Sunday lunch buffets (RM118++ for adults).

Some fun pod-like seating, a novelty that could endear Kampachi to a new generation.

Service sparkles here. Mohd Aizzar & the entire team exude a warm, polished professionalism.
Entry on Kampachi at Equatorial Hotel (currently closed): Oct. 2010.
Entry on Kampachi at The Troika: Dec. 8, 2012.