Hanare (Feb 10, 2011): Restaurant Review

Hanare: Round Four. The trilogy has turned into a quadrilogy,
For earlier entries, click: Feb. 2, Feb. 6 & Feb. 8.

Omakase

We rarely risk ordering “omakase” at Japanese outlets; from experience, letting the chef decide what to serve us can result in a slew of dishes that we dislike.

Feeling guilt-ridden after weeks of festive feasting? The “omakase” here might help; each course tastes clean, fresh and healthy, even though the meal as a whole remains incredibly indulgent.

Prices are not outrageous; a basic “omakase” costs around RM180+, while the most lavish one is RM300+.

Starters

Hanare surprised us with a cunningly creative selection that was supremely satisfying from the very start _ this slick, savory mix of cucumbers & fine seaweed.

Crunchy mustard flowers with fish roe.

Clams with sumiso (vinegar miso sauce).

Baigai

Baigai (a small water snail with a meaty texture) & smoked duck (deliciously juicy _ the best we’ve had in KL), accompanied by broad beans & spicy wasabi flowers.

Sea Urchin with Squid

Sea urchin with squid. Also spectacular; the inimitably sweet, soft uni proved to be the perfect partner for the chewy squid’s subdued flavors.

Sushi Platter

No complaints about the sushi platter. Fish is flown in three times a week.

Sashimi Platter

Ditto for the sashimi. Doesn’t get more seductively luscious than this.

Tsukemono

Tsukemono, a plate of pickled veggies. The radish was remarkable, with an infusion of citrus that imbued this humble root vegetable with real character.

Clam Broth

Succulent clams in a tantalizingly tangy broth. Hanare’s food should be slowly savored, since the complexities in some of these recipes only reveal themselves with careful consideration; this soup, for example, bore an underlying sweetness that we believe came from Azuki bean paste.

Wagyu Beef & Burdock Rice Claypot

Wagyu beef & burdock with rice in claypot. The Japanese cousin of Spain’s paella and Korean bibimbap. Tender, thinly sliced beef, mixed with addictively aromatic rice.

Desserts

We finished with a flourish, jubilating over a jumble of wafers stuffed with mochi, crushed peanuts & red beans, green tea pudding with vanilla ice cream, and mini-pancakes with apple jam. Ceding control to the chef ended in sweet surrender.