Back in the days of Kuala Lumpur’s renaissance – that period of rapid modernisation that began in earnest about 20 years ago – there were only a handful of upscale hotels in the city. And if you wanted fine dining or anything close to it, that’s where you had to go.

Today, things have certainly changed. The Malaysian capital is dotted with numerous hotels in the 4-star and 5-star categories, and even though most of those hotels still boast their own terrific restaurants, these days, there’s plenty of upmarket dining available outside hotels, too.

1. Cedar on 15

The hotels have an extra bit of competition now that wasn’t present years ago, so in response, many of them have really upped their game and that’s what we wanted to experience.

We recently visited Impiana KLCC, a chic 4-star business hotel right in the heart of KLCC’s Golden Triangle, offering equally easy walking distance to either Suria KLCC or Pavilion KL. On the 15th floor is the hotel’s Club Lounge and – our destination – Impiana’s in-house restaurant, Cedar on 15. Though many people have heard of Cedar on 15, not all are familiar with it.

3. Cedar on 15

That’s a shame, because this restaurant serves up some outstanding food in a great atmosphere with lovely views of KLCC and the surrounding cityscape. What’s more, it offers refined, upmarket dining with prices that are easy on the wallet.

Our meal started outside on the spacious deck, where we enjoyed Cedar’s signature cocktails and refreshments al fresco on a pleasantly mild weekday evening. Diners can choose to eat here, too, and as the sun sinks below the horizon, the patio offers a most enjoyable ambiance with cooling breezes and of course, those excellent views.

2. Cedar on 15

For our group, however, we dined inside. Cedar on 15 offers an open-concept dining room with a partial view of the kitchen and its imported Italian wood-fired oven, and has a couple of separate, more secluded dining areas, too.

The restaurant is in the midst of recrafting not just its menu, but its culinary theme. With a focus on Western cuisine in general, and steaks in particular, Cedar on 15 is set to position itself as a value-for-money choice for top-quality cuts of beef.

We were eager to try that, but we started with the Seafood on Salt Rock starter, an array of chilled yabbies (crayfish for non-Aussies), jumbo tiger prawns, and black mussels, all served on a large, chilled block of Himalayan salt. We also sampled a Starter Trio of smoked duck breast, a poached crayfish tartare, and gravlax.

9. Cedar on 15

6. Cedar on 15

7. Cedar on 15

The next course was even better – a subtle, earthy Porcini Mushroom Soup, easily ranking among the best I’ve ever had. Poured at the table from a teapot and served with milk foam and chervil, the soup was a revelation, a true testament to just how deliciously satisfying a good soup can be.

5. Cedar on 15

10. Cedar on 15

We also thoroughly enjoyed the Pumpkin Seed-crusted Black Cod, one of Cedar’s signature dishes. Generous in portion and immaculately presented, this was a unanimous hit.

And then came the Tomahawk Steak. Basically a large, bone-in ribeye with the surrounding meat included, this gorgeous one-kilogram steak had been seared to perfection and then finished beautifully in the wood-fired oven, hovering just nicely between medium-rare and medium.

Served simply with a selection of fine mustards and a side of grilled veggies, the steak was mouth-wateringly good.

Ideal for two or maybe three people, the tomahawk is carved tableside and is an impressive presentation all around.

11. Cedar on 15

A rather unique touch at Cedar on 15 is their selection of flavoured oils. The oils, which are furnished by VOM FASS, are all based on extra-virgin olive oil and are infused with an array of various flavours, offering diners an alternative to butter or standard oils.

4. Cedar on 15

We also delighted in the selection of fresh, warm breads served when we were seated, which were accompanied by a small dish of olive oil and a delicate pomegranate vinegar. It was different than the usual balsamic vinegar – which is often rather overpowering – and enjoyed by everyone at the table.

Unsurprisingly, Cedar on 15 offers a good wine list, one which doesn’t overwhelm but rather offers a modest selection of well-chosen wines, including a special focus on terrific rosé wines, a selection that’s especially appropriate in Malaysia’s tropical climate.

Refreshing, nicely chilled, and typically offering a nice balance between light and full-bodied, and with just a touch of sweetness to offset the acidity and alcohol, a good rosé should never be overlooked as an accompaniment, and the range on offer here was more than acceptable.

13. Cedar on 15

13.1 Cedar on 15

Desserts, of course, were not to be missed. We sampled the Sabayon, an Italian dessert incorporating egg yolks and sweet wine that is at once light and rich; a marvellous dish of classic Crêpes Suzette; and a stunning Molten Chocolate Cake, the warm bittersweet blend of white and dark melted chocolate inside beautifully complemented by a dry Shiraz from Australia. Every dessert was a winner, and a natural and fitting end to a superb meal.

Overall, we were pleased with every aspect of our meal at Cedar on 15. A very pleasant ambiance with lovely KLCC views provided the setting for good food prepared well and splendidly presented. There is nothing overly elaborate about the dishes at Cedar – it’s just simple, quality cuisine. But the presentation was stunning, the service was friendly and attentive, and the prices were a very nice surprise.

15. Cedar on 15

If you haven’t discovered the pleasure of dining at Cedar on 15, we suggest you book a table and give it a try. It’s a bit of a hidden gem right in the heart of KL, and capably ticks all the boxes for an enjoyable dining experience – one we’d be more than happy to repeat!

Location & Details

Cedar on 15

Impiana KLCC, Level 15, 13 Jalan Pinang, 50450 Kuala Lumpur

Open daily for lunch and dinner

Tel: +603 2147 1111

Find: View directory for Cedar on 15 here