Ribs At The Burgeon at Taman Bukit Mayang Emas: Restaurant Review

Posts by Sean Yoong
June 14, 2015
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No longer in operation.

It’s been many months in the making, but Ribs At The Burgeon is finally open – founders Seth & Ray & their terrific team have carved out a contemporary barbecue restaurant & whiskey bar in the suburbs that’s boldly ambitious & distinctively appealing.

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Pork Ribs

True to the outlet’s name, pork ribs are the raison d’etre at this clear-focused, sharp-minded venue, smoked over red oak for hours, with limited supplies each evening (on one night, the ribs ran out by 8pm). There’s no lack of ribs in KL & PJ, but these rise to the challenge of being memorable – ribs to relish & recommend, with resonant flavour & full-bodied juiciness. Available in Sweet & Spicy or Peppery (RM50 for the half-rack above, RM100 for full); order a side of creamy-milky mashed potatoes.

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Pork Belly

Don’t miss the magnificent pork belly – authoritatively succulent & authentically smoky, every bite is bliss, demanding to be devoured with gusto. RM40 for 400 grams, RM80 for 800. We also like the moist pulled pork burger, lovingly kitchen-made, not lackadaisically slapped together, coupled with fab fries & coleslaw. RM26; honest fare with a sense of heart in a setting that nonetheless exudes the mystique & flair of exceptional cooking (the name ‘Burgeon’ hints at hopes for more venues to come).

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Smoked Chicken and Pork Sausages

The meatiest & mightiest of meals also requires an order of smoked chicken – painstakingly brined with lemon, salt & rosemary for 16 hours & precisely flavoured with a signature rub; four robustly lip-smacking pieces of thigh & drumstick clock in at RM28. Remember to also try the pork sausages, surprisingly rustic in texture, with a tender coarseness that sets them far above the average sausage, available in well-tuned flavours of original, hot & spicy, or orange zest (RM20 for two, served with potatoes).

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Stew and Pork Scratchings

The menu takes up solely one page, but everything’s worth sampling, due to the kitchen’s intricate attention to detail. This soul-food stew supplies pure satisfaction for both taste & texture, comprising luscious chunks of pork, cooked with cannellini beans, potatoes, white wine, bacon bits & bay leaves, blanketed in crispy parsley bread crumbs (RM18). Even something as simple-looking as pork scratchings is executed with excellence, with the rinds roasted to a light crunch & subtly salted (RM8).

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Ribs At The Burgeon caters to omnivorous cravings too – you’ll find three princely-portioned salads that display complex dynamics: a trendy cauliflower ‘steak’ with shaved Manchego cheese, roasted corn, lettuce, herbed potatoes & carrot-orange dressing (RM26), roasted strawberries with chocolate sauce, spinach, piquillo peppers, radish & potato crisps (RM26), & marinated squid with crunchy lotus roots, crispy fried quinoa, rocket & fresh barley, finished with a peanut & lime sauce. Not the stars of the show here, but worthy supporting characters nonetheless.

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Desserts

Save space for the two desserts: We love the baked apple crumble, rich but not cloying, served hot & crowned with a sweet butter crumble & vanilla ice cream – fully fulfilling (RM24). There’s also a unique red velvet that breaks thrillingly free of cliches, topped with blackberries & layered with cream cheese, crispy cereal chocolate & whiskey-laced butter cream (RM18). There’s a ton of thought in everything at Ribs – even the choice of chairs, the flooring & ceiling, the placement of speakers for music.

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Whiskeys

Did someone say whiskey? Fans of the distilled beverage need to head to Ribs At The Burgeon; chief bartender Shu Mei & her collaborators have created a one-of-a-kind selection of whiskey cocktails that are marvellously mellow & absorbingly elaborate: Our favourites include is the inimitably elegant Canadian Club Blended, shaken with fresh apple juice & rose syrup, garnished with rosemary & rose petals for a delicate fruity-floral bouquet. RM36.

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Playful reinterpretations of known drinks: The warm Butter Whiskey (RM28) mixes the magic of Jim Beam Bourbon & Atholl Brose with melted butter, brown sugar & milk, while Mr Bean is a take on iced coffee, ravishing with compelling nuances, with Jack’s Daniel’s Tennessee whiskey, coffee, caramel, cream, milk, lavender syrup, toasted cashews & dried cranberries.

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Prefer your cocktails pleasurably creamy? Order the Little Ballerina (RM29), an impressively masterful medley of Ballantine’s Finest Scotch Blended, Greek yoghurt, strawberry jam, raspberry syrup & blended blueberries, or The Zen (RM28), featuring Santori Kakubin Japanese Blended, Kyoto Uji Sencha, milk & ice – an ideal matcha latte for liquor lovers.

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The Grey Grouse (RM26; Famous Grouse, Earl Grey Tea, home-made ginger syrup) is great, but the Tong Sui is even better (RM26), a remarkable reinvention of the traditional Chinese dessert, fusing Teacher’s Highland Cream Blended Scotch with pulpy pomelo puree, pomelo zest, red date juice & honey – a reason to head to Ribs even if it’s not near your neighbourhood.

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Come thirsty & try everything – the Leprechaun (RM32; Jameson’s Irish Whiskey, tonic & lemon slices – billed as the perfect introduction to the world of whiskey cocktails), Loretto’s Mark (RM30; Maker’s Mark, ginger ale & lime) & Strawberry Cooler (RM32; Wild Turkey 101 Bourbon, strawberries, basil leaves, vanilla, cranberry syrup, soda water) – or simply one of Ribs At The Burgeon’s many, many whiskies, like Haig Club on the rocks. This is one of 2015’s most commanding new restaurants; service is also sterling – many thanks to Igor & the entire Ribs At The Burgeon team for taking care of us in every way.

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Location and Contact Details

Ribs At The Burgeon

8 & 10, Jalan BM 1/2, Taman Bukit Mayang Emas

Tel: +603-74975373

Open Tues-Sun, 5pm-12am

Find: Contact details and map for Ribs At The Burgeon

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